Tag:

Supply Chain

Part 2 – From Trade Shock to Strategic Shift: Rebuilding the Fashion System from the Ground Up

by Richa Agarwal 29 May 2025

Editor’s Note: This article is the second in a three-part series by Richa Agarwal examining how the 2025 tariff environment and broader economic disruption are reshaping the global fashion industry. In Part 1, Richa explored the macro forces at play – from trade policy upheaval and consumer fragility to the unraveling of outdated operating models.

Missed Part 1? Catch up here.

Here in Part 2, Richa turns to the strategic responses underway: how fashion leaders are recalibrating sourcing, rethinking merchandise planning, investing in intelligent technologies, and redefining leadership for a more volatile world.

The Forced Evolution: Adapting to Uncharted Territory

This period of intense pressure is compelling a critical re-evaluation of established norms, forcing strategic shifts across the value chain.

1️⃣ Sourcing Recalibrated: The High-Stakes Game of Global Diversification

The “China Plus Many” strategy has shifted from long-term goal to urgent necessity. A temporary U.S.–China tariff truce (reducing some rates to ~30% for 90 days) offers a brief pause, but the broader landscape remains volatile – with a baseline 10% U.S. tariff on most imports and the risk of new “reciprocal” tariffs on others.

Nearshoring to Mexico and CAFTA-DR nations is gaining traction, but comes with trade-offs: higher costs, capacity constraints, and inconsistent duties (e.g., 25% on some Mexican imports). While CAFTA-DR’s share of U.S. apparel imports dropped from 9.6% to 7.6% in early 2025, FTA utilization rose from 73.8% to 81.1%, suggesting brands are becoming more adept at extracting value from the agreement, even as overall volume dips.

India is also emerging as a key alternative sourcing hub, combining mature capabilities with geopolitical alignment. However, expanding there at scale means navigating regulatory complexities and ensuring high standards for quality, ethics, and compliance.

The rush to diversify must not come at the cost of integrity. As brands enter newer or less mature markets, ethical labor, environmental compliance, and human rights must remain non-negotiable. AI-powered supplier vetting and third-party audits can support this vigilance – safeguarding reputation while enabling agility in an increasingly fragmented global sourcing environment.

2️⃣ Merchandise Planning Remastered: Precision, Prudence, and Predictive Power Become Standard

The traditional, often rigid, seasonal merchandising calendar is proving increasingly ill-suited to an era defined by extreme uncertainty. Success now hinges on embedding a new level of precision, prudence, and predictive capability into the planning process:

Hyper-Responsive Pricing and Promotion Strategies: With acute consumer price sensitivity—over half of consumers are willing to switch brands due to significant price hikes —and volatile input costs, AI-powered dynamic pricing tools are transitioning from innovative options to essential instruments.
AI-Driven Predictive Forecasting as a Baseline: In a fluctuating economic climate, achieving high forecast accuracy (where AI can offer up to a 20% improvement or even cut errors by up to 50% as McKinsey suggests) is vital for optimizing inventory, minimizing markdowns, and understanding nuanced shifts in demand elasticity.
Strategic Assortment Curation and Inventory Management: A more discerning approach to assortments is emerging, often characterized by a “less is more” philosophy that prioritizes core items, proven sellers, and higher-margin products. There’s increased caution regarding highly experimental lines until consumer demand patterns stabilize. On-demand manufacturing and agile hybrid fulfillment models are also being actively explored to reduce upfront inventory risk.
Adapting to the De Minimis Revolution: The definitive elimination of the de minimis trade provision for direct shipments from China and Hong Kong (with new effective duties around 54% for these individual postal shipments) fundamentally alters the cost structure for ultra-fast fashion and D2C brands relying on this channel. This necessitates new pricing, global logistics, and potentially U.S.-based warehousing and fulfillment strategies.

3️⃣ Technology as the Indispensable Engine: AI, DPC, and PLM

In this complex, data-intensive, and rapidly changing global environment, technology is no longer merely an enabler of efficiency but the critical engine for adaptation, resilience, and sustained competitive advantage.

➡️ Artificial Intelligence (AI) – The Strategic Intelligence Layer:

AI’s role is expanding far beyond initial applications. It is now essential for:

Sophisticated Risk Modeling: Integrating and analyzing diverse data streams related to trade policy volatility, geopolitical shifts, macroeconomic indicators (including credit conditions and consumer sentiment), and even climate-related disruptions to provide predictive risk assessments.
Advanced Demand Sensing and Consumer Analytics: Moving beyond historical sales data to interpret real-time market signals, social media sentiment, and nuanced shifts in consumer behavior and purchasing power.
Supply Network Optimization and Simulation: Enabling dynamic management of complex global supply networks, simulating the impact of potential disruptions, identifying optimal alternative pathways, and proactively reallocating resources.
Enhancing Sustainability, Transparency, and Compliance: Leveraging AI for verifying material provenance, tracking ethical compliance across multi-tier supply chains, and accurately calculating and reporting Product Carbon Footprints (PCFs).

➡️ Digital Product Creation (DPC) & 3D Design

The urgent need for speed, cost reduction, and sustainability makes DPC and 3D design technologies indispensable. As demonstrated by industry leaders like Perry Ellis (who reportedly reduced physical samples by 50% and shortened product development calendars by two months through DPC), these tools radically diminish reliance on physical prototypes, slash material waste and shipping costs, and facilitate faster, more collaborative, and iterative design processes.

➡️ Advanced Cloud Product Lifecycle Management (PLM) Systems

Modern, cloud-based PLM platforms serve as the central nervous system for today’s fashion enterprise. They are essential for ensuring data integrity, fostering seamless global collaboration among design, development, sourcing, and merchandising teams, enhancing supply chain visibility and traceability, and enabling the rapid execution of sourcing and production pivots demanded by the current environment.

4️⃣ The Evolving Fashion Leader: Architects of Resilience in an Age of Ambiguity

This era of profound disruption calls for a new paradigm of leadership and a significant evolution in professional roles, particularly for merchandising experts – a key focus at industry gatherings like PI Apparel Merchandise Planning New York. The traditional art of merchandising, while still valuable, must now be powerfully augmented by the science of data, technology, and strategic global awareness.

The modern fashion executive and merchandiser must increasingly function as a strategic orchestrator, demonstrating:

Deepened Financial and Geopolitical Acumen: A sophisticated understanding of global economics, the intricacies of international trade policy, currency risk, and the far-reaching implications of macroeconomic events like sovereign credit rating downgrades.
From Predictor to Scenario Architect: The ability to move beyond attempting to forecast a single future to skilfully modeling multiple complex scenarios and developing robust contingency plans for diverse trade, economic, and geopolitical outcomes.
Mastery of Resilient Value Networks: A strategic focus on designing, building, and managing adaptive, multi-nodal global value networks, shifting from an emphasis on linear chain optimization to holistic ecosystem resilience.
Champion of Data-Driven Transformation & AI Literacy: The leadership to drive the enterprise-wide adoption, integration, and effective strategic utilization of advanced analytics, AI tools, and digital platforms.
Decisive and Agile Leadership Under Pressure: The capacity to make informed, high-stakes decisions swiftly and confidently, often navigating ambiguity with imperfect or rapidly evolving information.

Looking Ahead

The strategies explored here in Part 2, mark the foundation of fashion’s transformation. But strategy alone is not enough.

In Part 3, I’ll distill these insights into a set of actionable imperatives – the essential building blocks of an antifragile fashion system. From operational resilience to ethical clarity and ecosystem collaboration, I’ll explore what it truly takes to lead through uncertainty and shape a stronger, more intelligent industry on the other side.

Part 3 will be released on Tuesday 3rd June…

Sources

McKinsey & Company, AI-Driven Operations: Forecasting in Data-Light Environments, 25 Apr. 2024
Bloomreach, The Merchandiser Reimagined: How AI Is Changing the Role
Syrup Tech, AI in Footwear Merchandising: Advancing Flexibility and Profitability
Techpacker, How Artificial Intelligence is Revolutionizing the Fashion Industry
Marketsy.ai, AI and Fashion: How AI Is Revolutionizing the Fashion Industry
Logistics Viewpoints, Amazon and the Shift to AI-Driven Supply Chain Planning, 26 Mar. 2025
PYMNTS, Walmart Develops AI Assistant That Helps Merchants Source Products
Alvarez & Marsal, Global Shift: Taxing De Minimis Imports and E-Commerce Strategies
Maersk Insights, Navigating 2025’s Geopolitical Supply Chain Landscape
BoF x McKinsey, The State of Fashion 2025

For a full list of citations and further resources provided by the author, please contact us or reach out to Richa directly.

29 May 2025 0 comments

Editors' Pick People & Leadership Supply Chain

Part 1 – From Trade Shock to Strategic Shift: Why Fashion’s Old Playbooks No Longer Work

by Richa Agarwal 27 May 2025

written by Richa Agarwal

Editor’s Note: This article is the first in a three-part series by Richa Agarwal examining how the 2025 tariff environment and broader economic disruption are reshaping the global fashion industry. Here, in Part 1, Richa explores the macro forces at play – from trade policy upheaval and economic volatility to shifting consumer behavior and sustainability crosswinds – and how they are rendering long-held operating models obsolete.

In Part 2, Richa will outline the strategic transformations now underway – and in Part 3, she’ll distill the road ahead into a set of actionable imperatives, offering a blueprint for antifragile value networks.

The Storm Hits: A System Under Siege

The global fashion industry is currently navigating a perfect storm; a confluence of disruptive forces testing its foundations like never before. As a seasoned veteran of the apparel and footwear sector, I’ve witnessed numerous market cycles, but the current environment – characterized by extreme trade policy volatility, significant U.S. economic headwinds including a recent credit rating downgrade, and persistent geopolitical instability – presents a challenge of unprecedented scale and complexity.

The “tariff whiplash” initiated in early 2025 – characterized by a new baseline 10% U.S. duty on most imports, compounded by steep “reciprocal” tariffs on key sourcing hubs (with China, for example, seeing effective rates swing dramatically before settling temporarily around 30-54%), and the pivotal elimination of the de minimis provision for China and Hong Kong – was already reshaping our operational landscape.

Now, as of late-May 2025, these trade pressures are amplified by new economic realities, most notably Moody’s recent downgrade of the U.S. sovereign credit rating. This development, signalling concerns over national debt and fiscal stability, has sent jitters through financial markets, threatening to increase borrowing costs for businesses and consumers alike, and potentially dampening already fragile consumer confidence. The old playbooks are not just outdated; they are obsolete.

The New Mandate: Rethink, Rebuild, Respond

But within this perfect storm of tariff chaos, credit concerns, and persistent global uncertainty lies a stark, unignorable mandate: this is not merely a crisis to be weathered, but a powerful, if painful, catalyst for the profound evolution of the fashion industry. It’s an urgent call to accelerate the adoption of intelligent technologies, build radically resilient value networks, and fundamentally rethink how we plan, source, and deliver value in a new global era.

The Shattered Illusions of a Bygone Era

For too long, many segments of our industry operated on a model of hyper-optimized, lowest-cost sourcing, often heavily concentrated in specific regions. This paradigm, while delivering margin benefits in a more stable world, carried inherent fragilities – exposure to geopolitical shifts, a lack of deep supply chain transparency, and mounting ethical and sustainability pressures. The trade policy shocks of 2025, now compounded by broader economic anxieties, have shattered the illusion of that old stability.

The immediate repercussions are being felt across the board:

1️⃣ Intensified COGS and Margin Compression

Persistently high effective tariff rates—the U.S. average remains at its highest since the 1930s, despite temporary rollbacks on some China tariffs—continue to inflate the COGS (Cost of Goods Sold). This, now potentially combined with broader inflationary pressures and higher capital costs following the credit downgrade, places extreme and ongoing pressure on margins.

2️⃣ The Beleaguered Consumer

Tariff-driven price hikes, with apparel and footwear, projected by the Yale Budget Lab, to see sustained double-digit increases (14-16% for apparel and 15-19% for shoes in the long run), are now confronting a consumer base potentially more cautious due to wider economic uncertainties and the prospect of increased borrowing costs. Major retailers like Walmart have already signaled the inevitability of passing these costs on to the consumers.

3️⃣ Inventory Risk Reaches Critical Levels

The combination of volatile consumer demand, disrupted global supply chains, and uncertain cost structures makes inventory management a high-wire act. The risk of crippling overstocks or damaging stockouts is significantly amplified.

4️⃣ Sustainability’s Crossroads

While direct investment in ambitious ESG programs faces even greater financial headwinds, the economic pressures on consumers could inadvertently accelerate trends towards product durability, repair, and the already burgeoning resale market —sectors not directly impacted by tariffs on new goods. This aligns with the critical need for verifiable sustainability claims, moving beyond platitudes to leverage AI and granular Product Carbon Footprint (PCF) data for genuine transparency, as I’ve emphasized in my broader work.

The Road Forward

The disruptions of 2025 have shattered long-held assumptions and laid bare the vulnerabilities in fashion’s global value system. But if Part 1 has mapped the contours of the crisis, Part 2 is about the response – the strategic recalibrations, technology investments, and organizational shifts already taking shape.

t-2 sleeps til Part 2.

Sources

Frontier.cool, 2025 Tariff Changes: Impact on Fashion, Textiles & Manufacturing, 12 Apr. 2025
UPS Supply Chain Solutions, 2025 Tariffs and Their Impact on Global Trade, 12 May 2025
Yale Budget Lab, State of U.S. Tariffs: May 12, 2025
Wall Street Journal, What the U.S.–China Tariff Rollback Means for the American Economy, 12 May 2025
Just Style, Outlook 2025: What’s Plaguing the Apparel Supply Chain?
Fashion Dive, Nearly Half of Shoppers Are Concerned About Tariff-Related Fashion Costs, 13 May 2025
Anadolu Agency, US Loses ‘Top’ Credit Rating from 3 Major Credit Rating Agencies, 19 May 2025
Palmetto Grain, Stocks Set to Open Sharply Lower After U.S. Credit Rating Downgrade, 19 May 2025
Investopedia, A Trade Loophole Is Closing. Here’s What That Means for Your Online Shopping Costs

For a full list of citations and further resources provided by the author, please contact us or reach out to Richa directly.

27 May 2025 0 comments

Manufacturing Supply Chain Technology

Part 2: The Top 8 Themes Shaping the Future of MAKE in Asia

by Michael Ratcliffe 16 May 2025

written by Michael Ratcliffe

Introduction

Asia’s fashion supply chain is being re-engineered in real time. Tariff pressures, rising costs, and shifting sourcing geographies are forcing brands and manufacturers to rethink long-held strategies, while simultaneously navigating demands for speed, flexibility, and sustainability. From digital sampling to micro-factories and AI-assisted production, the MAKE phase is no longer just about efficiency – it’s becoming a space for reinvention.

Based on interviews conducted by Alexandra Shagzhina for PI Apparel’s DESIGN.MAKE.SELL 2025 event, we’ve identified eight core themes driving this change across MAKE (aka manufacturing and the supply chain) – straight from the mouths of those shaping the industry across Asia.

Missed Part 1? Read it here.

👇 In Part 2 of our series, discover the key manufacturing and supply shifts defining the future of fashion across the region…

🌍 Sourcing Strategies Are Shifting…Again

Tariff wars and geopolitical uncertainty are forcing brands to rethink their sourcing strategies across Asia. With aggressive levies on Chinese goods back on the table, countries like Vietnam, Bangladesh, and India are quickly gaining ground. At the same time, Hong Kong’s once-central role is under pressure, with questions around relevance, cost, and access. As trade winds shift, how should sourcing strategies evolve to stay ahead of disruption?

⚡Faster, Leaner, and More Local: The New Supply Chain Mandate

Manufacturers across Asia are under growing pressure to do more with less. Brands want faster timelines, lower MOQs, and greater flexibility, without compromising on cost or sustainability. In response, Southeast Asia is emerging as a testbed for innovation, from digital product creation to nearshoring strategies and micro-factory models. Can Asia’s manufacturing powerhouses rise to meet this new triad of speed, flexibility, and sustainability?

🤖 AI in Manufacturing: Promise vs. Proof

From fabric yield optimisation to demand forecasting, AI holds major potential to streamline manufacturing massively. But on the factory floor, adoption is still early and scepticism remains high. While pilot programmes abound, manufacturers are calling for proof, not prototypes. What’s missing are practical case studies that clearly show where AI is saving time, improving margins and reducing waste. Where is AI in manufacturing actually delivering measurable value and what’s still just hype?

🏭 Diversifying Asia’s Production Powerhouses

Hong Kong continues to serve as a strategic gateway to China’s supplier ecosystem, but production dynamics across Asia are evolving fast. Cities like Shenzhen are gaining traction for their advanced infrastructure and speed, while regional hubs such as Ho Chi Minh City, Bengaluru, and Dhaka are attracting attention for their cost advantages, skilled labour, and growing tech-readiness. How can brands build a more resilient sourcing strategy by leveraging Asia’s increasingly diverse manufacturing landscape?

♻️ Sustainability Can’t Just Sit in a CSR Report

Sustainability is no longer a “nice to have” – it must be embedded into everyday production decisions. But ESG fatigue is setting in. Manufacturers are increasingly sceptical of rigid frameworks that feel disconnected from business realities. As regulations tighten and buyer demands grow, the focus must shift to scalable, cost-effective strategies that make sustainability part of the operational norm. How can sustainability move from reporting requirement to operational reality?

⚙️ The Automation Divide: Can Small Players Keep Up?

Larger manufacturers are doubling down on automation – from laser cutting to AI-powered warehouse systems – gaining clear efficiency advantages. But for small and mid-sized factories, the high cost and complexity remain major barriers. To level the playing field, the next generation of tools must be modular, lightweight, and easy to integrate. Can automation be democratised across Asia’s highly fragmented manufacturing landscape?

👩‍🏭 A Talent Crisis on the Factory Floor

Across Asia, production leaders are facing a growing talent gap. Aging workforces, high attrition, and a shortage of technically skilled recruits are putting pressure on output and quality. At the same time, there’s a disconnect between young digital creatives and experienced factory staff, highlighting a cultural and generational divide. What new models can bridge the growing gap between digital design and traditional manufacturing expertise?

💤 Innovation Fatigue – Tech Must Deliver, Not Distract

Even as innovation accelerates, manufacturers are growing weary of flashy tools that fail to integrate, scale, or show measurable ROI. The appetite is shifting toward practical, modular technologies that enhance existing workflows, not disrupt them. Is your tech stack solving real problems, or just adding complexity without clarity?

🔗 Ready to explore these themes in person?

DESIGN.MAKE.SELL 2025 lands in Hong Kong this 11–12 November. The agenda is live, the first speakers are locked in, and the conversations promise to be bold. Join fashion leaders from across Asia to explore the future of design, manufacturing, and retail. For more information, click the image below!

Coming soon: In the 3rd and final part of this series, we will dive into ‘The Top 6 Themes Informing a New Era of SELL in Asia’.

16 May 2025 0 comments

Education Sustainability Technology

Towards a Brighter Blue: Mariette Hoitink on Denim, Education & Radical Transparency

by Michael Ratcliffe 13 May 2025

written by Michael Ratcliffe

Header image: Mariette Hoitink; source: https://www.parool.nl/

Introduction

In 2023, when I was still working at The Fabricant, I had the chance to get a behind-the-scenes tour of the Denim City campus right here in Amsterdam. From the moment I stepped inside, I was struck by the energy of the space – the hum of machinery, the quiet focus of students honing their craft, the collision of tradition and innovation happening in real time. Denim wasn’t just being studied here; it was being reimagined.

At the centre of it all was Mariette Hoitink: bold, grounded, and unwavering in her purpose. She speaks about education, sustainability, and collaboration with the kind of clarity that only comes from years of being on the front line, doing the work.

In this Seamless interview, I reconnected with Mariette to explore how she’s using denim as a vehicle for meaningful industry change, from launching the world’s first jeans-focused school to helping shape national policy through the Denim Deal. Whether it’s nurturing overlooked talent, developing denim hubs across continents, or embedding transparency and craft into every layer of the supply chain, her mission is clear: to build a fashion industry that’s fairer, cleaner, and smarter – led with a kind of leadership that’s deeply intentional, human, and effective.

🎧 Listen to the full interview below…

If you don’t have the time, scroll down for 9 key takeaways that capture the spirit, insight, and energy Mariette brings to the denim space, and why her vision for a brighter blue future is resonating far beyond Amsterdam.

💡Key Takeaways

1. Craft Must Come First, Then Tech Unlocks Its Power 🧵

At Denim City, technology is everywhere, from Jeanalogia’s “eDesigner” to ozone finishers and digital pattern tools. But none of it replaces the need to understand how garments are made by hand. Students learn to sew, draft paper patterns, and experiment with fit long before they’re introduced to tech. The result? They use technology not as a crutch, but as a creative accelerator.

“A sewing machine is tech. So is eDesigner. But neither matters if you don’t know how jeans are made…or what it takes to make great fit.”

2. The Jean School: Filling the Gap Left by Traditional Education 🎓

When art schools and universities turned her down, Mariette turned to vocational education, and co-founded Jean School, the world’s first denim-focused training programme. It’s built around four pillars: sustainability, circularity, craftsmanship, and creativity. Today, it includes a three-year course and a one-year international programme that attracts students from across the globe.

“Vocational education is often dismissed, but that’s where the real makers are. We built Jean School for them and the results have been incredible.”

3. Talent Incubator: Supporting the Makers Who Don’t Fit the Mold 🌟

Launched during the pandemic, the Talent Incubator is one of the Foundation’s most human-centred programmes. It supports gifted young creatives who may not thrive in conventional systems by offering hands-on training, personal development, mental health support, and real-world industry experience. Participants learn everything from fit and fabrication to how to pitch themselves, build a portfolio, and start their own business.

“We’re not just training denim makers – we’re developing people who can lead, pitch, and build something of their own.”

4. Making as Healing: Focus, Mindfulness, and Self-Worth 🧘

Beyond skills, Mariette emphasises that making is medicine, especially for a post-COVID generation often navigating anxiety, ADHD, and digital overload. Sitting behind a sewing machine, students learn to focus, be present, and build something tangible from scratch. There’s no music, no multitasking – just attention and transformation.

“When you’re making, you have to listen. You’re not allowed headphones -you need to hear the machine. That focus is powerful.”

**5. ‘Stretch Yourself’: A Crash Course in Creativity Under Pressure ⚡**

A two-week sprint in partnership with Kingpins and mills using Lycra, Stretch Yourself challenges students to create new garments using stretch denim , all in the tightest of timeframes. It’s a test of design, craft, time management, and emotional resilience, culminating in a live showcase at one of denim’s biggest global events.

“It’s not just about the fabric stretching, but about students stretching themselves creatively, technically, and emotionally.”

✂️ I was lucky enough to attend the Kingpins Amsterdam show and you can read more about the ‘Stretch Yourself’ project, along with other highlights from the show’s ‘Beyond the Fabric’ initiative, here.

6. Sustainability Starts with Radical Transparency 🌱

For Mariette, true sustainability isn’t about buzzwords, but about accountability. She’s blunt about the fact that many brands still hide behind cost-cutting and opaque sourcing, instead of owning their full supply chains. Whether it’s fabric traceability, chemical use, or living wages, she believes in making every link in the chain visible and ethical.

“We’re still talking about living wages in 2025. That’s unacceptable. If you’re not paying fairly across the chain, you’re not sustainable.”

**7. Policy Can Start with Practitioners 🏛️**

Mariette didn’t wait for government regulation to start pushing post-consumer recycling. Before the Denim Deal became a national green initiative, her team was already piloting concepts like Red Light Denim – a jeans-recycling project built around hemp, post-consumer fibre, and Amsterdam’s cultural identity. That grassroots experimentation later helped shape real legislation.

“We said: focus on one fabric, get it right, and use it as a model. That’s how the Denim Deal started – and now it’s global.”

8. The Storefront as a Living Lab 🏛️

The House of Denim Foundation recently took over the Denim City Store, transforming it into a fully immersive space where visitors can shop, learn, repair, and make. It now serves as a showroom for sustainable brands, a visibility platform for student work, and a gateway into courses like “Make Your Own Jeans” or “Make Your Own Kimono.”

“If you come to Amsterdam, this is where you go for denim. It’s not just a store – it’s an experience. You’ll leave with a product, a story, or a skill.”

9. Denim City Is Becoming a Global Movement 🌍

What started as a single campus in Amsterdam is now evolving into a global model for denim innovation, education, and sustainability. In São Paulo, Denim City operates with a different structure – larger in scale, more commercially driven, but with the same mission at its core: to showcase how denim can be produced more responsibly and collaboratively. Plans for a third hub in Istanbul are already underway, reinforcing the Foundation’s long-term ambition to establish denim centres across continents, each grounded in local culture but united by shared values.

“Brazil wasn’t the obvious next step, but the opportunity and the mindset were right. And now, with Istanbul on the horizon, we’re continuing to connect the dots between regions, supply chains, and generations.”

Final Thoughts

Across every initiative, Mariette’s vision is clear: combine education with community; transparency with innovation; and making with meaning. Denim City isn’t just a school or a lab, but a living, evolving model for what the future of fashion education and sustainable production could look like.

Her mantra?

“We want to make the industry cleaner, drier, and smarter – and we call that working toward a brighter blue.”

👏 A huge thank you to Mariette for your time! And if you do find yourself in Amsterdam, take her up on her invitation: head over to De Hallen and spend the day soaking it all in. Visit Denim City, grab lunch at the Foodhallen, browse for locally made keepsakes at the Makers Market, and maybe even catch a film at the cinema. It’s a beautiful space full of creativity, craft, and community – and something just a little different. 💙

13 May 2025 0 comments

DPC People & Leadership Supply Chain Technology

Digital Colour: Part 1 – Why is Accuracy Still a Challenge and How Can We Fix It?

by Michael Ratcliffe 28 March 2025

written by Michael Ratcliffe

Introduction

In a recent virtual panel discussion, we tackled one of the most persistent hurdles in digital product creation for fashion: how to achieve accurate and consistent colour across the supply chain, from screen to sample to store.

Moderated by Michael Ratcliffe (PI Apparel), the session featured Olaf Koelling (DMIx by ColorDigital), Sylwia Szymczyk (FashionINSTA.ai & Former Timberland), Michaela Jauk (Odlo), and Gabrielle Shiner-Hill (Bureau 555), four experts deeply embedded in the world of DPC, colour data, and material digitisation.

The panel explored six core questions shaping the future of digital colour accuracy, from the root causes of colour mismatch between digital and physical products, through to AI-driven colour correction and real-time rendering.

🎥 Watch the full video below!
Don’t have time to watch the full video? Scroll down for a summary of key takeaways and noteworthy quotes.

🔑 Key Takeaways

🎯 1. Colour Accuracy Depends on a “Single Source of Truth”

The foundation of digital colour consistency is accurate data. Without a precise, standardised starting point – often defined by spectral measurements or LAB values – brands risk misalignment across photography, 3D renderings, and physical samples. One trusted, calibrated environment is essential.

💡🖥️ 2. Display Technology & Lighting Still Skew Perception

From uncalibrated monitors to unpredictable daylight shifts, colour perception changes drastically depending on the viewing context. Even with well-managed data, brands must account for the human and hardware variables that distort how colour is seen at different points in the value chain.

📊🌍 3. Spectral Measurement Enables Remote & Reliable Approval

Using spectral data for colour verification allows teams to reduce back-and-forth sampling, approve materials remotely, and ensure consistent outcomes across global suppliers. The technology is now precise enough to trust over subjective visual checks, but adoption still requires a cultural shift.

🤝 4. Cross-Functional Alignment Is Crucial

Designers, DPC teams, eComm, fabric technologists, and manufacturers all interpret colour differently. Without clearly defined ownership and shared standards, brands face breakdowns in communication. Successful companies are assigning colour ownership, often to colour designers or technologists, and formalising approval workflows.

🧵 5. Material Simulation Affects Colour Representation

Accurate colour in 3D design depends not just on the colour data itself, but how materials behave under lighting. From roughness and reflectance to transparency and specular maps, every channel influences the final look, making lighting setups and consistent rendering environments non-negotiable.

⚙️ 6. AI Has Potential But Isn’t a Silver Bullet Yet

While AI is showing promise in areas like image enhancement and lighting simulation, it’s not yet a reliable fix for accurate colour transformation or correction. However, panellists agreed the space is evolving rapidly, and success will depend on large, diverse training datasets.

➡️ 7. Change Management Is the Biggest Barrier

Technology isn’t the issue—people are. Long-established habits, siloed teams, and lack of visibility into successful case studies are the real obstacles to progress. Teams must invest in onboarding, communicate value clearly, and create feedback loops that reinforce adoption.

💬 Noteworthy Quotes

💚 Olaf Koelling, ColorDigital GmbH

“If your data’s not right, you can adjust what you want but it’ll still be a mess.”
“Sometimes we had four different versions of a single colour, depending on who viewed it where.”
“You can produce the same fabric in Turkey or Vietnam—but only if your colour data is standardised.”
“AI is improving quickly, but right now, algorithms are still better for colour control.”

💛 Sylwia Szymczyk, fashionINSTA.ai

“The questions we had about colours and calibration most often came from the eComm team. They wanted the 3D colours to match the ones from the photoshoots. But the photos were edited, not true to life. So we had to reverse-engineer things in Lightroom to get them closer.”
“Companies are gatekeeping their success stories. That’s holding the industry back.”
“Everyone who worked digitally had this huge PDF that explained exactly how assets had to be delivered. It didn’t matter who created them—freelancers, suppliers—everything looked the same. That consistency made a huge difference.”

💜 Michaela Jauk, Odlo

“Material simulation isn’t just texture – it’s about how the surface reacts to light.”
“We realised that if we gave the retoucher the 3D render, the physical sample, and the photoshoot image all at once, it was actually the render that aligned most closely with the real product. The photos were often heavily edited, and lighting conditions varied, but our render pipeline was consistent. That’s when the team began trusting 3D as a reliable reference—not just a visualisation.”

💙 Gabrielle Shiner-Hill, Bureau 555

“We couldn’t control every screen, so we controlled the capture process instead.”
“It took three months to set up the spectral colour measurement system, but once it was running smoothly, the colourist said, ‘I’d never go back.’ He was finally able to approve colours remotely without endless physical sampling — it completely changed his workflow.”

A huge thank you to all of our panellists for taking part in such a great and important conversation. We look forward to meeting some of you in person at next week’s PI Apparel Europe 2025 event on Lago Maggiore, and on that note, if you are yet to grab your ticket for our 12th European edition, you can do so now by clicking on the image below!🥂🍕

Part 2 – How Do We Better Align People, Process, and Technology to Tackle Limitations & Misconceptions? – coming soon! 🔜

28 March 2025 0 comments

Image of stage at Vogue Business x Google AI Summit

AI Editors' Pick Retail Technology

Luxury in the Age of AI – Key Insights from the Vogue Business x Google AI Summit

by Michael Ratcliffe 17 February 2025

written by Michael Ratcliffe

Last week, I attended the 2nd edition of the Vogue Business & Google Luxury AI Summit in Paris where the speaker line-up explored the expanding role of AI in the luxury industry, focusing on opportunities, challenges, and real-world applications across Fashion, Beauty, and Retail.

Scroll for my key insights that look set to shape AI’s role in luxury.

Key Themes & Takeaways

1️⃣ AI is Reshaping Luxury, But Not Replacing Human Craftsmanship

AI is enhancing rather than replacing luxury’s core values – craftsmanship, storytelling, and emotional connection.
Brands like Gucci are using AI for backend optimisation (inventory, supply chain, demand forecasting) but keep advertising and creative direction AI-free to maintain brand authenticity.
Luxury consumers crave and expect human experiences – AI’s role is to amplify personalisation, not replace in-store engagement.

2️⃣ AI is Powering Smarter, More Personalised Consumer Journeys

Google’s AI-powered solutions (e.g. AI Overviews, Lens, Local Inventory Ads, Performance Max) are reshaping search, discovery, and sales conversion in luxury.
Luxury shoppers are more digitally influenced than mass-market consumers (80% of luxury purchases have some digital touchpoint).
L’Oréal’s AI-powered beauty tech is bringing hyper-personalisation at scale, from AI-driven skincare diagnostics to virtual try-ons and AI-powered beauty coaching.

3️⃣ AI is Creating a More Seamless Omnichannel Experience

AI is bridging online and offline by providing deeper insights into consumer preferences:
- Alpha’s AI clienteling tool gives sales associates instant access to customer preferences, increasing personalisation and conversion rates (40% vs. <1% for newsletters).
- Moda Resa’s AI-powered showroom scheduling is eliminating inefficiencies between brands and buyers.
- Google’s Omnibuddy AI optimization tool is maximizing sales across all channels.

4️⃣ AI-Generated Content & Hyper-Realistic Digital Assets are on the Rise

Genera is redefining digital fashion photography with AI-generated models and 3D fashion assets, allowing brands to create hyper-realistic content without physical shoots.
Covision Media’s AI-driven 3D scanning is being used by Inditex, Meta, and Nvidia for hyper-accurate 3D product visualization.
AI-generated fashion assets are accelerating design-to-production workflows, reducing costs, and enhancing product visualization in gaming, virtual experiences, and e-commerce.

5️⃣ AI Voice & Conversational AI Are Scaling Customer Engagement

Eleven Labs’ AI-powered voice technology is humanising AI-generated speech, making it more expressive, localised, and inclusive.
AI-generated agents can now handle customer service, product navigation, and feedback collection—reducing operational costs while improving personalisation.

6️⃣ AI is Driving Inclusivity & Accessibility in Luxury

AI is playing a transformative role in expanding inclusivity across fashion, beauty, and retail, making luxury more accessible to a wider audience.

L’Oréal’s AI-powered Shade Finder analysed consumer data and identified missing foundation shades, leading to the creation of more inclusive beauty products.
Maybelline’s AI-powered virtual makeup (integrated into Microsoft Teams) allows anyone to try a polished makeup look, increasing accessibility in professional settings.
HAPTA (by Lancôme & Verily) is an AI-powered motion-stabilising makeup applicator, helping individuals with limited hand mobility apply products independently.
AI-powered text-to-speech tools are making digital content more accessible by providing realistic, expressive AI-generated voices.

Challenges & Barriers to AI Adoption

1️⃣ Consumer Expectations for Luxury Are Higher Than Ever

Virtual Try-On technology is not yet at the level luxury consumers expect—the quality of rendering and realism needs major advancements.
Luxury consumers want real experiences – Gucci & Kering are hesitant to implement GenAI-generated advertising to protect brand storytelling and authenticity.

2️⃣ AI Integration Still Faces Organisational Resistance

While AI can enhance productivity, adoption remains a cultural challenge – many brands still operate on legacy systems.
Smaller brands lack resources to leverage AI fully, while bigger brands struggle with agility and real-time data integration.

3️⃣ Ethical AI & Data Transparency Are Critical

Kering is actively supporting the EU AI Initiative, ensuring AI development is responsible, transparent, and aligned with luxury values.
AI-driven personalisation relies on consumer data—trust and ethical handling of this data will be a major determinant of AI’s success in luxury.

Case Studies & Stats

✅ Google AI-powered luxury retail tools → +12% increase in in-store visits (Tag Heuer case study).
✅ L’Oréal’s AI-driven skincare diagnostics → 80% accuracy in skin type assessment based on 150,000 dermatology data points.
✅ Lancôme‘s AI-powered shade matching → New inclusive foundation shades based on AI-driven consumer data.
✅ Alpha’s AI-powered personalization → 40% conversion rate vs. <1% for brand newsletters.
✅ Brands using AI-driven 3D content (Inditex, Meta, Nvidia) → Increased e-commerce sales conversion through hyper-realistic visualization.

AI in Luxury: Looking Ahead

📌 Short-Term (Next Year): AI will continue enhancing supply chain optimisation, operational efficiency, and omnichannel strategy.
📌 Mid-Term (Next 5 Years): AI will bring digital luxury experiences closer to the in-store experience, elevating online personalisation without compromising luxury’s human and emotional core.
📌 Long-Term: The rise of AI agents, hyper-realistic virtual experiences, and autonomous decision-making. AI will reshape luxury, but only if it aligns with brand heritage and human connection.

My Final Thought

AI is no longer just a tool for efficiency – it is transforming how luxury is discovered, personalised, and experienced. From hyper-realistic digital content to AI-powered clienteling, brands are leveraging AI to enhance creativity, deepen personalisation, and unlock new levels of engagement.

But luxury is, at its core, about craftsmanship, heritage, and human connection. While AI can amplify the experience, brands are drawing a clear boundary – it will never replace the artistry, emotion, and storytelling that make luxury truly exceptional.

The future of luxury isn’t AI-driven, it’s AI-empowered. AI technology will serve to elevate, not replace, the human touch.

17 February 2025 0 comments

Manufacturing Retail Technology

On-Demand Fashion: Customization, Sustainability & the Future of Production

by Rahul Verma & Julia Chinakaeva 2 January 2025

written by Rahul Verma & Julia Chinakaeva

The research outlined below is based on qualitative data gathered through in-depth interviews with two distinct groups: made-to-order/made-to-measure fashion brands and the technology providers that enable and support these operations. This approach provides a deeper understanding of how on-demand fashion works in practice and its potential to reshape the industry’s future.

An Introduction to On-Demand Fashion

The on-demand fashion business model represents a fundamental shift away from the traditional, mass-produced model that has dominated the fashion industry for decades. Historically rooted in the bespoke and made-to-measure approach, on-demand fashion ensures that clothes are produced only after an order has been placed. It is a sustainable approach that minimizes waste and excess inventory by aligning production directly with consumer demand.

Terminologies like bespoke, made-to-measure, made-to-order, and pre-order are often used interchangeably, but though these are closely related, they do differ in key aspects. Bespoke or tailor-made refers to clothes made entirely from scratch based on a customer’s specifications, involving significant customization and craftsmanship. Made-to-measure involves creating clothes based on standardized patterns that are adjusted to fit a customer’s measurements. Made-to-order, on the other hand, refers to production that begins only after an order is placed, with or without customization options. Pre-order typically means customers can order items before they are produced, usually based on standard sizing. Finally, small-batch manufacturing allows for limited quantities of clothes to be produced, offering scalability and more room for automation.

While these terms highlight different degrees of customization, complexity, and time to completion, they share a common principle: production is driven by demand. For the sake of clarity, in this article, we will collectively refer to all these concepts under the umbrella term ‘on-demand fashion’ to streamline the discussion and avoid any confusion.

Defining On-Demand Fashion

While on-demand fashion has been broadly described as a model where clothes are produced only after an order is placed, industry leaders bring their own perspectives to the concept, reflecting the diversity within the field.

For Jess Fleischer of Son of a Tailor, on-demand fashion is about customization and precision:

We don’t just make clothes when they’re ordered, we create each piece based on a custom pattern for the individual customer. It’s about personalization—making sure that every item fits perfectly.

This focus on both made-to-order production and personalized fit sets brands like Son of a Tailor apart from traditional mass production.

At Hockerty, co-founder Alberto Gil emphasized sustainability and waste reduction:

No clothing is made without a specific customer in mind. It’s the only way we can ensure that we aren’t contributing to the endless cycle of overproduction and waste in fashion.

Similarly, eShakti’s Vivek Paliwal highlighted the necessity of customization in today’s market:

You can’t mass produce clothes for a population where 46% falls outside of traditional sizing charts. On-demand fashion lets us offer custom sizes and styles that fit each customer’s unique needs.

For Stephane Courtioux at Zipps, on-demand fashion is also about optimizing the supply chain and aligning digital tools:

It’s not just about waiting for an order to produce something,” he said. “It’s about creating a system where every part of the process—from design to production—is integrated and efficient.

What unites all these perspectives is the idea that on-demand fashion isn’t simply a shift in production timing but a reimagining of how the fashion industry can be more sustainable, responsive, and customer-centric, with technology playing a critical role in enabling this transformation.

More on the Unspun model in the video below…

Motivations for Embracing On-Demand Fashion

For many of the companies we interviewed, the decision to embrace on-demand fashion stemmed from a mix of practical, ethical, and consumer-driven factors.

Seph Skerritt of Proper Cloth was frustrated with the fit problem inherent in off-the-rack clothing and the ability of on-demand to provide custom-fit clothing was the core motivation behind their production shift:

People want clothes that actually fit them. For us, on-demand was the only way to solve that problem. You can’t get the same level of precision with mass production.

Son of a Tailor shared a similar frustration; for them, it’s not just about solving a problem but creating a deeper connection between the product and the customer.

Traditional production is wasteful and ineffective. On-demand allows us to make only what’s needed, and when each piece is made for a specific person, it eliminates the guesswork.

On the sustainability front, Hockerty saw on-demand fashion as a key driver for reducing waste:

It’s about responsibility – we don’t want to be part of the overproduction crisis in fashion. If we make something, it’s because someone has already asked for it.

This sentiment was echoed by eShakti, where Vivek Paliwal explained how their model addresses the needs of the plus-size market:

There’s no such thing as one size fits all, especially when 46% of the market is outside traditional sizing charts. On-demand is our way of serving customers who have long been underserved.

For tech providers like N.A.bld, the motivation is rooted in creating more efficient, data-driven production processes. Their then-CEO Amanda Curtis described their role as empowering brands to scale on-demand production:

We saw how technology could solve problems in the supply chain, and for us, it was about giving brands the tools they need to manage small-batch production seamlessly.

Across the board, the common thread is a desire to create a more responsible, customized, and efficient model for fashion—whether that’s about solving fit issues, addressing sustainability, or leveraging technology to streamline production. As Kevin Martin of Unspun put it:

”On-demand is the future. It’s not just about making things on time; it’s about making them right.”

More on the Hockerty model in the video below…

Key Challenges in Implementing On-Demand Fashion

Implementing on-demand fashion may seem like a promising solution for customization, sustainability, and efficiency, but the journey to realizing it is complex and filled with obstacles. One of the most significant challenges for many companies is the sheer operational complexity of producing items on demand.

For Proper Cloth’s Seph Skerritt, the difficulty lies in managing a business where every product is unique:

Every single product we make is different—different size, different configuration, different delivery address.

This level of customization requires flawless communication between customers, the brand, and the manufacturer. Mistakes are costly because they directly affect customer satisfaction.

From a broader perspective, the reluctance of manufacturers to shift from mass production to smaller, individualized runs is a major barrier for companies like Son of a Tailor.

Finding the right production partner was tough. The industry is built around bulk production, and asking manufacturers to create one-off pieces isn’t something they’re used to.

Charlotte Lageyre from Lectra offers another layer of insight, explaining that while brands may want to embrace on-demand models, they often struggle to align their internal processes and technology, which highlights that adopting on-demand fashion isn’t just about changing one part of the process—it requires a full integration of the supply chain:

One of the biggest challenges is the integration of systems. It’s not enough to have a single 3D tool or a digital design solution. Brands need seamless workflows that connect design, production, and sales in real-time.

At eShakti, scalability becomes the biggest hurdle. Vivek Paliwal stressed how difficult it would be for larger brands to fully transition to on-demand because the shift requires rethinking everything from how orders are taken to how production is fulfilled—a daunting task for larger, traditional brands.

If a giant like H&M were to switch, it would mean a complete overhaul of their business model.

While the challenges may vary slightly from brand to brand, a common thread is the reliance on technology to bridge the gap between design, production, and delivery. As Unspun’s Kevin Martin pointed out, automation and technological innovation will be the key drivers for overcoming these challenges in the long term:

The long-term payoff is worth it. Once automation and technology are fully in place, the potential for on-demand is enormous.

The barriers, whether operational, technological, or cultural, highlight the complexities of disrupting long-established processes in fashion. However, for those willing to navigate these challenges, the rewards—sustainability, efficiency, and consumer satisfaction—are worth the effort.

More on the eShakti model in the video below…

The Role of Technology in On-Demand Fashion

Technology is the cornerstone of on-demand fashion, providing the tools necessary to manage a complex, individualized production model. From digital platforms that streamline supply chains to advanced manufacturing techniques like 3D weaving, tech solutions have allowed on-demand fashion to evolve from a niche concept to a scalable business model.

Charlotte Lageyre from Lectra highlighted the importance of integrating various systems to ensure that on-demand fashion can work seamlessly. This digital transformation is crucial to on-demand fashion’s success, as it enables brands to optimize their entire workflow and respond to consumer demands quickly:

The challenge isn’t just about having a single tool, like 3D design software. It’s about integrating every part of the process—from design to production—so that everything operates in real-time. Brands need to be able to track everything, from the material to the final garment.

Companies like Unspun have taken technology to the next level with automation. Kevin Martin described how their 3D weaving technology allows clothes to be produced without the need for cutting and sewing, reducing both waste and production time. This level of innovation highlights how advanced technology is essential for overcoming the traditional barriers of labor costs and inefficiencies in production:

Automation is the key that unlocks on-demand fashion. Our goal is to automate as much of the production process as possible, which will not only make on-demand scalable but also more affordable.

For N.A.bld, technology is about creating a more transparent and efficient supply chain. Amanda Curtis noted that their platform gives brands real-time visibility into production timelines and material sourcing.

We built a system that allows brands to manage small-batch production as if they were working with mass production quantities

While it provided crucial tools to bridge the gap between brand and manufacturer, they also faced challenges convincing manufacturers to adopt these new systems.

Vivek Paliwal at eShakti reinforced the idea that having a robust technology infrastructure is non-negotiable in the world of on-demand:

We developed our own in-house tracking system because there weren’t ready-made solutions available. For us, managing raw materials and ensuring that orders are tracked all the way to delivery is essential. Without that, scaling an on-demand model would be impossible.

The integration of technology across the production and supply chain not only streamlines operations but also drives the sustainability goals many brands are committed to. For brands and tech providers alike, the ability to quickly pivot and produce clothes based on real-time data is what sets on-demand apart from traditional fashion models. As Stephane Courtioux from Zipps commented:

Without technology, on-demand fashion wouldn’t be feasible. It’s about creating a connected ecosystem where every part of the supply chain is digitally linked.

By leveraging advanced tools like 3D design software, AI-driven production systems, and comprehensive supply chain platforms, brands are unlocking new ways to meet consumer demands in a more sustainable, cost-effective manner. Technology isn’t just facilitating on-demand fashion—it’s the foundation that makes it possible.

Barriers to Wider Adoption of On-Demand Fashion

While the benefits of on-demand fashion are clear, the model faces significant barriers to wider adoption. From ingrained industry practices to technological limitations, the transition to on-demand has proven difficult for many brands, especially those with established production models.

One of the most persistent challenges is the reluctance of manufacturers and brands to embrace new methods. As Charlotte Lageyre from Lectra pointed out:

Manufacturers are set up for bulk production, and many don’t have the flexibility or technological readiness to shift to on-demand.

This resistance to change is often deeply rooted in how traditional fashion supply chains are built, making it difficult for large-scale brands to pivot to smaller, more customized production runs.

For Vivek Paliwal of eShakti, the issue is not just technological but also cultural, where a mindset shift is especially challenging for larger, more established brands that rely on predictable, bulk production models to minimize costs:

The mindset shift required to fully adopt on-demand is huge. Brands have operated the same way for decades. Moving away from bulk production means rethinking everything—from supply chain logistics to how they interact with consumers.

Cost is another significant barrier. Kevin Martin of Unspun highlighted the financial challenges involved in making on-demand production economically viable:

On-demand can be 10 to 20 times more expensive than traditional production, depending on the location and scale. Until we get automation to a point where costs come down, brands are hesitant to make that switch.

The current cost structure makes it difficult for on-demand fashion to compete with the low-cost mass production methods used by fast fashion brands.

However, even brands that are ready to adopt the model face practical hurdles. As Amanda Curtis from N.A.bld shared:

Finding manufacturers who are willing and able to produce on-demand is one of the biggest bottlenecks. Many are hesitant to change their processes, even if the demand is there.

The lack of a robust network of on-demand-capable manufacturers creates a supply-side issue that limits the scalability of this model.

The shift to on-demand also raises questions about consumer behavior. Stephane Courtiouxfrom Zipps pointed out that consumers are accustomed to fast fashion’s immediate gratification:

When people shop online, they expect their orders quickly. On-demand production takes time, and consumers need to be educated on why waiting for a custom product is worthwhile.

This consumer education piece is crucial for brands hoping to shift towards on-demand models, as it requires changing expectations around delivery times and customization.

In the long term, the barriers to on-demand fashion may be reduced as automation and technology improve. However, the current resistance – whether from manufacturers, brands, or consumers – continues to slow the broader adoption of the model. As Jess Fleischer of Son of a Tailor put it:

On-demand is still niche, and until the industry evolves both culturally and technologically, it will remain that way.

More on the N.A.bld model in the video below…

The Sustainability and Environmental Impact of On-Demand Fashion

One of the most significant promises of on-demand fashion is its potential to reduce waste, a key environmental concern in traditional mass production. By producing only what is ordered, brands can avoid the overproduction that leads to unsold inventory filling landfills.

In the words of Seph Skerritt from Proper Cloth:

Traditional fashion operates with up to 20-30% overproduction. On-demand eliminates that. We’re only making what’s already sold, and that drastically reduces waste.

This model ensures that brands aren’t producing clothes that may never be purchased, a critical advantage in an industry known for its inefficiencies.

Vivek Paliwal of eShakti quantified this shift further with a focus on agility which helps brands keep up with fast-moving trends without contributing to the excessive waste tied to overproduction:

In a market where fashion cycles change monthly, reducing inventory is key. On-demand allows us to avoid the risks associated with holding large stocks of unsold goods.

Kevin Martin from Unspun took it a step further, linking on-demand fashion to carbon emissions reduction. By integrating technologies like 3D weaving, they are working to minimize the environmental impact at every step, from reducing fabric waste to creating clothes that are easier to recycle.

Our goal is to reduce global carbon emissions by 1% through on-demand production.

On-demand fashion’s environmental benefits are clear, but scaling those benefits to the broader industry will require brands to adopt these practices more widely. As Charlotte Lageyre from Lectra summarized:

The more integrated the process, the better control brands have over their environmental footprint. It’s not just about reducing waste—it’s about making sure every part of the supply chain is optimized for sustainability.

More on the Lectra model in the video below…

What is the Future of On-Demand Fashion?

The future of on-demand fashion is promising, but it will be a gradual shift rather than an overnight revolution. Many of the industry leaders we spoke with emphasized that while on-demand fashion is growing, it still occupies a niche market and faces significant hurdles in scaling.

Says Vivek Paliwal of eShakti:

Minimum order quantities are decreasing across the board, and as brands get more comfortable with smaller production runs, we’ll see more movement toward producing one unit per order.

Kevin Martin from Unspun predicts that automation will play a key role in driving this shift:

Once automation technology becomes more advanced and affordable, we expect on-demand production to take off. It’s the biggest unlock for making on-demand scalable and cost-effective.

Charlotte Lageyre of Lectra offered a balanced view, agreeing that on-demand is set to grow but emphasizing that it won’t replace traditional production models entirely:

Brands will likely adopt a hybrid approach. We’re seeing that many are beginning to use on-demand for specific lines while still relying on traditional models for their core offerings. The industry will need time to adjust.

This view was echoed by Stephane Courtioux from Zipps, who believes on-demand will complement, not replace, existing models:

On-demand will grow, but it will co-exist with traditional production for a long time. Brands will adopt hybrid models, using on-demand for specific product lines or special collections.

The consensus is clear: on-demand fashion has the potential to reshape the industry, but it will take time, technological advancements, and a shift in consumer and brand mindsets for widespread adoption to occur.

Advice for Brands Considering On-Demand Fashion

For brands looking to transition to on-demand production, the message from industry leaders is unanimous: start small, experiment, and invest in the right partnerships and technology.

Seph Skerritt from Proper Cloth emphasized the importance of ensuring that on-demand production addresses a real need:

On-demand shouldn’t just be a marketing gimmick. It has to solve a problem—whether that’s fit, sustainability, or efficiency. Focus on where it can add real value for your customers.

Jess Fleischer of Son of a Tailor echoed this sentiment, urging brands to take the plunge by starting small:

You don’t need to overhaul your entire business overnight. Start with a limited collection or a specific product line, learn from it, and gradually scale up. The key is getting started and being willing to adapt.

Vivek Paliwal from eShakti also stressed the importance of choosing the right partners:

It’s critical to find manufacturers and tech providers who understand the on-demand model. Your success depends on building a supply chain that can handle the complexity of producing one-off clothes efficiently.

For Lectra’s Charlotte Lageyre, technology plays a central role in making on-demand work, but it needs to be integrated into every part of the production process:

Brands need to invest in tools that connect design, production, and sales seamlessly. If your systems aren’t talking to each other, you’ll struggle to make on-demand scalable.

In summary, on-demand fashion is achievable, but it requires a thoughtful, measured approach. Start small, invest in technology, and choose partners who understand the complexities of this model. With patience and strategic planning, brands can unlock the potential of on-demand to meet consumer demand while minimizing waste.

More on the Son of a Tailor model in the video below…

Final Thoughts

The insights gathered from leading on-demand fashion brands and technology providers reveal a clear shift in how the industry is approaching production, sustainability, and customer satisfaction. Across the board, the interviews demonstrated that on-demand fashion holds immense potential to address some of fashion’s most pressing challenges—excessive waste, inefficient supply chains, and the growing demand for customization.

One of the most compelling advantages of on-demand fashion is its ability to eliminate overproduction. By producing only what has been sold, these companies are reducing waste and ensuring that every garment has a clear purpose, aligning their production with consumer demand.

However, the road to on-demand adoption isn’t without its challenges. As many interviewees pointed out, the complexity of managing individualized production processes and the need for advanced technology integration make the transition difficult. Brands must be willing to invest in seamless digital systems, strong partnerships, and the right technological infrastructure to succeed.

The environmental and financial benefits are clear, but the shift to on-demand requires a mindset change—both within the industry and among consumers. Educating consumers about the value of waiting for a customized, sustainably produced garment will be key to driving wider adoption of this model.

At the same time, the promise of automation shows that the future of on-demand fashion is filled with exciting possibilities. As automation and AI-driven tools become more accessible, the cost barriers to on-demand production will gradually decrease, making it a more attractive option for both large and small brands alike.

Please don’t hesitate to get in touch with us on Linkedin via the links below should you have any questions!

Rahul and Julia.

2 January 2025 0 comments

Editors' Pick People & Leadership Technology

Digital Transformation is Dead. Long Live Continuous Adaptation.

by Michael Ratcliffe 16 December 2024

written by Michael Ratcliffe

The narrative of digital transformation has long been a seductive one – a silver bullet promising to modernize businesses through sweeping technological interventions. But what if this approach is fundamentally misguided? What if true resilience comes not from grand, one-time technological overhauls, but from cultivating an organizational culture of continuous, incremental adaptation?

Traditional digital transformation strategies would suggest replacing entire systems, implementing massive enterprise technologies, and expecting immediate revolution. Instead, the most successful organizations are proving that survival requires something far more nuanced: a perpetual state of technological and cultural readiness.

The Illusion of Transformation

Digital transformation, as traditionally conceived, implies a finite process. Companies invest heavily in technological infrastructure, believing they can “complete” their modernization journey. This mindset is dangerously static in an era of unprecedented technological acceleration.

The fashion supply chain perfectly illustrates this challenge. Brands that viewed technological implementation as a one-time project quickly found themselves obsolete. Those who instead cultivate adaptive capabilities—integrating AI, exploring virtual prototyping, embracing flexible manufacturing – are demonstrating true resilience.

Continuous Adaptation: A New Organizational Imperative

Continuous adaptation is not about technology; it’s about mindset. It requires:

1. Structural Flexibility: Creating organizational structures that can rapidly reconfigure in response to emerging technologies and market signals.
2. Learning Agility: Developing workforce capabilities that prioritize continuous skill development over static expertise.
3. Technological Openness: Viewing technology not as a destination, but as an ongoing conversation between organizational needs and innovative possibilities.

The Characteristics of Adaptive Organizations

Adaptive organizations share fundamental characteristics that distinguish them from traditional, transformation-oriented enterprises:

Decentralized Decision Making

Instead of waiting for top-down technological mandates, these organizations empower teams to experiment, prototype, and implement technological solutions rapidly. In the fashion context, this might mean design teams using 3D modelling tools without extensive bureaucratic approvals, or production units leveraging AI for real-time inventory optimization.

Continuous Learning Infrastructure

These organizations treat learning not as a periodic training exercise, but as an integrated organizational capability. Technologies like AI and machine learning become tools for ongoing skills development, allowing employees to continuously expand their technological fluency.

Experimental Culture Failure is reframed as a learning opportunity. Adaptive organizations create safe spaces for technological experimentation, understanding that not every innovation will succeed – but every attempt provides valuable insights.

Technological Ecosystem Thinking

Rather than viewing technology as isolated interventions, adaptive organizations see technological capabilities as interconnected ecosystems. A 3D design tool is not just a standalone software, but part of a broader transformation in product development, sustainability, and customer engagement.

Practical Implications

For businesses contemplating this shift, the path forward involves:

- Replacing large-scale transformation budgets with continuous innovation funds

- Developing technological literacy across all organizational levels

- Creating cross-functional teams that can rapidly prototype and implement technological solutions

- Establishing metrics that measure learning and adaptation, not just technological implementation

The Fashion Industry as a Microcosm

The fashion supply chain offers a compelling case study. Brands that embrace continuous adaptation are reimagining every aspect of their operations:

- Design teams using AI to predict trend trajectories

- Manufacturers leveraging body scanning for personalized production

- Logistics networks powered by machine learning for dynamic inventory management

These are not massive, one-time transformations. They are ongoing, incremental adaptations that collectively reshape the entire industry.

A Philosophical Shift

At its core, continuous adaptation represents a philosophical shift from seeing technology as a tool to be implemented, to viewing it as a dynamic language of organizational evolution.

It demands that we move beyond digital transformation as a project with a defined beginning and end. Instead, we must cultivate organizational cultures that are inherently responsive, learning-oriented, and technologically fluent.

The Future is Not Transformed – It’s Adapted

As we look toward 2025 and beyond, the most successful organizations will not be those that have “completed” digital transformation. They will be those with the cultural DNA to continuously sense, learn, and evolve.

Digital transformation is dead. Long live continuous adaptation.

The invitation is clear: Embrace uncertainty. Cultivate learning. Build adaptive capacity.

The future belongs not to those who transform, but to those who never stop changing.

16 December 2024 0 comments

Stanley Szeto, Lever Style @ PI Apparel Hong Kong

Supply Chain

Proven by Zara and now Shein: Speed and Versatility Trump Cost

by Editor 12 May 2023

written by Editor

In this talk, recorded at PI Apparel Hong Kong, Stanley Szeto, Executive Chairman of Lever Style Inc., shares his insights on the paramount importance of speed and versatility over cost in today’s apparel industry. Here are key highlights from his talk:

He introduces Lever Style as a one-stop apparel supply chain platform, emphasizing its role in offering flexibility in terms of lead times and order sizes rather than competing on the lowest labor costs. This approach aims to help brands reduce inventory risk, showcasing a shift from traditional cost-saving measures to a more dynamic, responsive strategy.
Stanley highlights Lever Style’s evolution from a shirt manufacturing company in 1956 to a modern, asset-light supply chain platform. The company’s strategic shifts, including horizontal integration and expansion beyond China, illustrate its adaptation to the changing landscape of apparel manufacturing and distribution.
The talk underscores Lever Style’s collaboration with premium fashion labels and digitally native brands, stressing the significance of speed and flexibility in catering to the needs of a diverse clientele. Examples include working with Stitch Fix on a private label program that leverages quick response to consumer demand, significantly reducing inventory risk.
Stanley explains Lever Style’s ability to manage high mix, low volume production, which is crucial for brands seeking to offer a wide array of SKUs and sizes without the burden of excessive inventory. This capability enables brands like Bonobos and Third Love to offer extensive sizing options, enhancing customer satisfaction through better fit and variety.
The presentation delves into the financial and operational benefits of prioritizing speed and versatility, including minimizing stockouts and working capital needs. Szeto uses comparative analyses to demonstrate how this approach can lead to higher gross margins and profitability, contrasting traditional models that rely heavily on deep discounting to clear excess inventory.
Lever Style’s success and the broader industry implications are discussed through comparisons with companies like Gap and Zara. Szeto points out the stark differences in market capitalization and efficiency, attributing Zara’s success to its fast-fashion model that emphasizes quick turnaround times and responsiveness to market trends.
Finally, Stanley touches on the challenges and opportunities presented by companies like Shein, which have taken the principles of speed and versatility to new heights. He acknowledges the controversies surrounding such models but advocates for the adoption of their efficient supply chain practices, tailored to support sustainable, quality-focused brands.

The session illustrates the shifting priorities in the apparel industry, where speed, flexibility, and responsiveness to consumer demand are increasingly becoming key determinants of success.

12 May 2023 0 comments

Supply Chain

How the Apparel Supply Chain is Evolving

by Editor 26 October 2022

written by Editor

In this session, recorded at the PI Apparel Supply Chain Forum in New York in 2022, Alex Thomas, the VP Global Quality at GAP shares his perspective on the supply chain disruption experienced in the last few years, what this means for GAP and what the future holds.

Global Presence and Brand Portfolio: Alex Thomas introduces Gap Inc. as a $16 billion holding umbrella with four key brands: Old Navy, Gap, Banana Republic, and Athleta. These brands collectively serve over 55 million customers across Asia, Europe, and the US.
Massive Scale of Production and Supply Chain: He outlines the vast scale of Gap Inc.’s operations, including producing 156 million tees, 73 million denim bottoms, and sourcing from 25 countries annually. This highlights the extensive global supply chain and production capabilities of the company.
Supply Chain Challenges and Adaptations: Thomas discusses the significant disruptions faced in recent years, such as factory and port disruptions, geopolitical trade factors, and fluctuating raw material costs. He emphasizes the need for agility and resilience in the supply chain, including strategies like regionalization and vertical integration.
Shift to Omnichannel and Sustainability Focus: The presentation covers the shift towards omnichannel retail in response to the pandemic and consumer trends, as well as the importance of sustainability, transparency, and customer centricity in their operations.
Leveraging Industry 4.0 and Predictive Analytics: Alex highlights Gap Inc.’s focus on leveraging Industry 4.0 technologies and predictive analytics to improve efficiency and decision-making in their supply chain.
Voice of the Customer and Continuous Improvement: He emphasizes the importance of customer feedback in shaping product development and continuous improvement, using specific examples of how customer data influences changes in product design and quality.
Company Culture and Future Direction: The talk concludes with insights into Gap Inc.’s company culture, focusing on innovation, agility, sustainability, and the importance of partnerships in the supply chain. Thomas also discusses the future direction of the industry, with an emphasis on technological advancements and digital transformation.

A full transcript of this session can be found here.

26 October 2022 0 comments