Header image: Mariette Hoitink; source: https://www.parool.nl/
Introduction
In 2023, when I was still working at The Fabricant, I had the chance to get a behind-the-scenes tour of the Denim City campus right here in Amsterdam. From the moment I stepped inside, I was struck by the energy of the space – the hum of machinery, the quiet focus of students honing their craft, the collision of tradition and innovation happening in real time. Denim wasn’t just being studied here; it was being reimagined.
At the centre of it all was Mariette Hoitink: bold, grounded, and unwavering in her purpose. She speaks about education, sustainability, and collaboration with the kind of clarity that only comes from years of being on the front line, doing the work.
In this Seamless interview, I reconnected with Mariette to explore how she’s using denim as a vehicle for meaningful industry change, from launching the world’s first jeans-focused school to helping shape national policy through the Denim Deal. Whether it’s nurturing overlooked talent, developing denim hubs across continents, or embedding transparency and craft into every layer of the supply chain, her mission is clear: to build a fashion industry that’s fairer, cleaner, and smarter – led with a kind of leadership that’s deeply intentional, human, and effective.
🎧 Listen to the full interview below…
If you don’t have the time, scroll down for 9 key takeaways that capture the spirit, insight, and energy Mariette brings to the denim space, and why her vision for a brighter blue future is resonating far beyond Amsterdam.
💡Key Takeaways
1. Craft Must Come First, Then Tech Unlocks Its Power 🧵
At Denim City, technology is everywhere, from Jeanalogia’s “eDesigner” to ozone finishers and digital pattern tools. But none of it replaces the need to understand how garments are made by hand. Students learn to sew, draft paper patterns, and experiment with fit long before they’re introduced to tech. The result? They use technology not as a crutch, but as a creative accelerator.
“A sewing machine is tech. So is eDesigner. But neither matters if you don’t know how jeans are made…or what it takes to make great fit.”
2. The Jean School: Filling the Gap Left by Traditional Education 🎓
When art schools and universities turned her down, Mariette turned to vocational education, and co-founded Jean School, the world’s first denim-focused training programme. It’s built around four pillars: sustainability, circularity, craftsmanship, and creativity. Today, it includes a three-year course and a one-year international programme that attracts students from across the globe.
“Vocational education is often dismissed, but that’s where the real makers are. We built Jean School for them and the results have been incredible.”
3. Talent Incubator: Supporting the Makers Who Don’t Fit the Mold 🌟
Launched during the pandemic, the Talent Incubator is one of the Foundation’s most human-centred programmes. It supports gifted young creatives who may not thrive in conventional systems by offering hands-on training, personal development, mental health support, and real-world industry experience. Participants learn everything from fit and fabrication to how to pitch themselves, build a portfolio, and start their own business.
“We’re not just training denim makers – we’re developing people who can lead, pitch, and build something of their own.”
4. Making as Healing: Focus, Mindfulness, and Self-Worth 🧘
Beyond skills, Mariette emphasises that making is medicine, especially for a post-COVID generation often navigating anxiety, ADHD, and digital overload. Sitting behind a sewing machine, students learn to focus, be present, and build something tangible from scratch. There’s no music, no multitasking – just attention and transformation.
“When you’re making, you have to listen. You’re not allowed headphones -you need to hear the machine. That focus is powerful.”
5. ‘Stretch Yourself’: A Crash Course in Creativity Under Pressure ⚡
A two-week sprint in partnership with Kingpins and mills using Lycra, Stretch Yourself challenges students to create new garments using stretch denim , all in the tightest of timeframes. It’s a test of design, craft, time management, and emotional resilience, culminating in a live showcase at one of denim’s biggest global events.
“It’s not just about the fabric stretching, but about students stretching themselves creatively, technically, and emotionally.”
✂️ I was lucky enough to attend the Kingpins Amsterdam show and you can read more about the ‘Stretch Yourself’ project, along with other highlights from the show’s ‘Beyond the Fabric’ initiative, here.
6. Sustainability Starts with Radical Transparency 🌱
For Mariette, true sustainability isn’t about buzzwords, but about accountability. She’s blunt about the fact that many brands still hide behind cost-cutting and opaque sourcing, instead of owning their full supply chains. Whether it’s fabric traceability, chemical use, or living wages, she believes in making every link in the chain visible and ethical.
“We’re still talking about living wages in 2025. That’s unacceptable. If you’re not paying fairly across the chain, you’re not sustainable.”
7. Policy Can Start with Practitioners 🏛️
Mariette didn’t wait for government regulation to start pushing post-consumer recycling. Before the Denim Deal became a national green initiative, her team was already piloting concepts like Red Light Denim – a jeans-recycling project built around hemp, post-consumer fibre, and Amsterdam’s cultural identity. That grassroots experimentation later helped shape real legislation.
“We said: focus on one fabric, get it right, and use it as a model. That’s how the Denim Deal started – and now it’s global.”
8. The Storefront as a Living Lab 🏛️
The House of Denim Foundation recently took over the Denim City Store, transforming it into a fully immersive space where visitors can shop, learn, repair, and make. It now serves as a showroom for sustainable brands, a visibility platform for student work, and a gateway into courses like “Make Your Own Jeans” or “Make Your Own Kimono.”
“If you come to Amsterdam, this is where you go for denim. It’s not just a store – it’s an experience. You’ll leave with a product, a story, or a skill.”
9. Denim City Is Becoming a Global Movement 🌍
What started as a single campus in Amsterdam is now evolving into a global model for denim innovation, education, and sustainability. In São Paulo, Denim City operates with a different structure – larger in scale, more commercially driven, but with the same mission at its core: to showcase how denim can be produced more responsibly and collaboratively. Plans for a third hub in Istanbul are already underway, reinforcing the Foundation’s long-term ambition to establish denim centres across continents, each grounded in local culture but united by shared values.
“Brazil wasn’t the obvious next step, but the opportunity and the mindset were right. And now, with Istanbul on the horizon, we’re continuing to connect the dots between regions, supply chains, and generations.”
Final Thoughts
Across every initiative, Mariette’s vision is clear: combine education with community; transparency with innovation; and making with meaning. Denim City isn’t just a school or a lab, but a living, evolving model for what the future of fashion education and sustainable production could look like.
Her mantra?
“We want to make the industry cleaner, drier, and smarter – and we call that working toward a brighter blue.”
👏 A huge thank you to Mariette for your time! And if you do find yourself in Amsterdam, take her up on her invitation: head over to De Hallen and spend the day soaking it all in. Visit Denim City, grab lunch at the Foodhallen, browse for locally made keepsakes at the Makers Market, and maybe even catch a film at the cinema. It’s a beautiful space full of creativity, craft, and community – and something just a little different. 💙
