I joined PI Apparel back in April 2013, just three months before our very first event in London. I was brand new to the world of fashion technology, and one of my first calls was with this larger-than-life, endlessly enthusiastic PLM champion—Pam Buckingham (then at Deckers Brands) who immediately put me at ease. I was so eager to get her on board as a speaker, and to my delight, she said yes!
Fast forward to today, and not only has Pam been to 10+ of our events across the US and Europe, but I’ve also visited her in California and met her family. She’s not just one of PI Apparel’s biggest advocates—she’s also one of the kindest, most genuine people you could hope to meet. She’s the kind of person who greets you with the biggest of hugs and dives straight into the loudest, most animated catch-ups.
If anyone deserves the title of PI Apparel OG, it’s Pam. So, I couldn’t be happier to be sitting down with her today to reflect on the past decade and how much the industry has changed along the way. Let’s do this!
Hello friend and thanks so much for joining us in the Seamless hot seat today! You’ve had an incredible career spanning decades in the fashion industry. Can you share some key moments or turning points that shaped your journey, and how they led you to your current role?
Thanks for having me, Michael! I’m so thrilled to be here. First, let me just say that PI Apparel is my absolute favourite conference—always has been since I first attended in 2013!
As far as me and my fashion journey, I started out nearly 40 years ago when I was just 16. My dad was in the business, so he made one phone call, and suddenly, I had my first job. I was part of a high school work-study program, spending my mornings at school and afternoons learning the ropes of the industry. Back then, it was a very different world—patterns were made by hand, tech packs were drawn with pencils, and I was managing the fax machine to send out quotes to factories. It was basic stuff, but it gave me my start.
There was a moment then when my dad and I both learned CAD systems at the same time. I was this enthusiastic teenager, and he was in his mid-40s, figuring it out alongside me. We’d come home and compare notes at the dinner table: “did you discover this trick yet?” That experience gave us a unique bond and made me fall in love with the potential of technology in this industry.
After high school, I went to the Boston School of Fashion, eager to learn traditional pattern-making by hand. It didn’t take long to realize that while I loved the craft, the hands-on methods weren’t for me. But on a computer? That was a whole other story.
The intersection of technology and process captivated me, and I’ve been hooked ever since.
At 20, I packed my bags and moved to California, landing what felt like the dream job at Patagonia. I spent 15 years there, and it truly shaped me. Back then, they were already talking about sustainability and ethics—concepts that were revolutionary in the early 90s. From implementing my first PLM system to owning fit for the entire line, I grew up there really. The week-long philosophy class with Yvon Chouinard when I first joined? Unforgettable.
From there, I had the privilege of working with some amazing brands: Deckers (Hoka, Teva), Coldwater Creek, and Ralph Lauren, where I was VP of Technology for Product Creation. Along the way, I also dabbled in the tech world, leading the UX redesign for Flex PLM at PTC. I didn’t think I had any business working at a tech company, but the VP at the time said, “I have enough people who can build the tech; I need someone who understands the business.” That was a pivotal moment in understanding the value of my experience.
Today, I’m with VibeIQ—a company I fell in love with as customer #3 while at Ralph Lauren. Fun fact: the team here includes people I worked with on my very first PLM implementation over 20 years ago! When their CEO called to show me the platform, I was ready to sign with another provider. But within five minutes of seeing what they’d built, my jaw was on the floor; it solves problems I’d wrestled with my entire career!
Looking back, it’s been an amazing ride—from designing patterns by hand to transforming how the industry uses technology. I’ve been blessed to work with incredible teams, learn from industry legends, and, most importantly, stay passionate about what we do. It’s been a career full of change, challenges, and excitement, and I wouldn’t trade it for anything.
What an incredible journey! It’s inspiring to hear how your career has evolved alongside the industry’s technological advancements, and how those early experiences shaped your passion for innovation. In the decade since you first attended PI Apparel – crazy, I know – digital transformation has grown significantly, yet progress often feels slow. How have your expectations and perspectives on the industry’s adoption of digital tools changed?
Yes, you know, when I reflect on the digital transformation of the fashion industry, I can’t help but feel a bit disheartened by the pace of change.
I think back to 2013 and that first PI Apparel show in London—it felt like such an exciting time! Digital product creation was so new, and the possibilities seemed endless. It felt like we were on the cusp of a transformation, but here we are, a decade later, and I’m not sure we’re as far along as we should be.
There’s still this deeply ingrained reliance on old-school business processes, and it makes me wonder if we’re waiting for the next generation of leaders to really drive the change we need. I also think the pandemic slowed progress even further.
But what frustrates me the most is how often brands approach digital transformation as an “addition” to existing workflows instead of a replacement. It ends up creating more work rather than solving the problem.
Take the digitization of raw materials, for instance. It’s an enormous challenge in our industry because materials change so frequently, and the effort required to keep up with those changes is monumental. And yet, there’s often no clear purpose behind these digital assets—are they for product development, marketing, or e-commerce? The lack of clarity means that a lot of effort goes into creating these models without maximizing their value.
Then there’s the question of how AI might redefine 3D modeling altogether. I’ve seen tools where you can sketch a line, feed it into AI, and get a visual output that resembles a 3D model. So, do we really need to build every single 3D model from scratch anymore? Maybe not. If a factory already understands how to produce the product, do we need that detailed model?
This might be an unpopular opinion, but sometimes I wonder if we’ve already seen the peak of 3D modeling as we know it.
But I’m also intrigued by the potential for AI to streamline and support the process. Imagine using AI to automate variations of a design—you have the core model and an approved palette, and AI generates endless possibilities. Designers could then focus on curation and refinement instead of starting from scratch. That’s the kind of shift I hope to see more of—leveraging technology to truly enhance creativity and efficiency, not just add to the workload.
Ultimately, over the course of my career it’s become clear that digital transformation is about more than tools—it’s about rethinking how we approach the entire process. It’s not just about the technology itself but how we integrate it into our workflows to create meaningful change.
We need bold leadership and a willingness to challenge the status quo if we’re ever going to unlock the full potential of digital in our industry.
Love your point about rethinking the entire process, rather than just adding more tools. You’ve witnessed significant advancements in PLM and other technologies. How do you see these tools continuing to reshape product creation and enable better collaboration across teams?
One area that’s matured tremendously is PLM. There’s been huge adoption across the board, and we’ve seen the emergence of solutions tailored for smaller brands, making this technology accessible even if you’re not a billion-dollar powerhouse. That’s a win for everyone in the industry.
But here’s the thing: while PLM is fantastic for building and managing product data, it’s not where ideation happens.
And that gap has been a constant frustration—until now. I know I might sound biased, but there’s a reason I work for VibeIQ. It’s solving a critical problem by providing a centralized, collaborative platform for ideation and earlier and more frequent feedback loops and iterations. Think about how disconnected teams have been, working in Excel, PowerPoint, Adobe XD, or other tools that don’t really understand what a product is. You need to know so much about a product just to enter it into PLM, and by then, a lot of the creative magic can feel constrained by technical requirements.
With a tool like VibeIQ, teams can ideate freely without losing structure. You can start with something as simple as “Michael’s cool new shirt,” even before you have an image or defined specs. As the product evolves, so does the data—all in one connected platform. This isn’t just about streamlining ideation; it’s about unlocking the future. For example, clean, attributed product data at the very start of the cycle is essential for effectively leveraging AI. Without that, even the most advanced AI tools can’t deliver meaningful results.
To me, this shift—enabling clean, real-time product data in a collaborative platform from day one—is one of the most transformative changes we’ve seen.
It opens the door to innovation, better workflows, and provides merchandising and design a place to come together and align on a common, iterative understanding of the product line at the very beginning of the process.
It’s not just about making things easier for creatives; it’s about fundamentally changing how we approach product creation in a way that fosters seamless collaboration across global teams with real-time, accurate product data and product visuals to drive more confident assortment decisions earlier in the process, when they are less costly.
It’s exciting to hear how tools like VibeIQ are reshaping the ideation process and bridging gaps that have long frustrated creative teams. As PLM has evolved and new technologies like 3D modeling and AI have emerged, how have you seen PLM’s role shifting in relation to these tools? What opportunities or challenges does this present?
Look, PLM excels at the engineering side of product creation, especially around raw materials and consolidation. For example, at Deckers Brands, implementing PLM across multiple brands revealed that the same leather was being used across different products—but at varying prices. By consolidating those purchases, smaller brands gained access to better margins or higher-quality materials they couldn’t afford before. That kind of efficiency is where PLM shines, and it’s still critical for many businesses.
That said, PLM wasn’t built for creative ideation or assortment planning. Design and Merch teams often feel constrained by its rigid, engineering focused systems, so they turn to disconnected tools like Excel and Adobe for ideation. This gap is where new technology solutions like VibeIQ come in, which provides these teams with real-time product data and product visuals from the moment of conception. This then enables these teams to make smarter, faster, and more confident decisions – potentially assisted by AI – throughout the assortment lifecycle.
The problem for traditional PLM providers? Their technology hasn’t evolved.
Many still rely on decades-old infrastructures, making updates that feel like “putting lipstick on a pig.” At some point, you have to overhaul the underlying system, but that’s a huge investment. Meanwhile, agile solutions are starting to take over, offering tools that creatives actually enjoy using. When I was at Ralph Lauren, we moved design and merchandising teams out of PLM into VibeIQ, where they could work freely and push data back into PLM only for technical and engineering purposes.
The narrative around PLM is changing. It’s still essential for core functions, but its role is becoming more specialized.
At the same time, technology solutions focused on bringing together the art and science of product creation are gaining ground, showing us that the real future of digital transformation lies in systems that balance innovation, usability, and integration.
It’s fascinating to hear how the role of PLM has become more specialized while creative-focused tools are stepping up to fill those early-stage gaps. Speaking of tools and innovation, which technologies do you believe are truly transforming the industry? And are there any that you feel are more hype than substance?
I mean AI is undeniably the game-changer right now. It’s evolving so quickly that no one fully knows where it’s headed, but its potential is massive—from design and sales analytics to helping us streamline go-to-market calendars.
That said, the key to unlocking AI’s full potential lies in clean, well-structured data. Without it, all the promise of AI just doesn’t materialize.
Another intriguing challenge is training AI to understand brand DNA. Designing a Nike backpack should look and feel entirely different from creating one for Louis Vuitton. The ability to teach AI what makes a brand unique excites me—it’s something I constantly geek out on in my spare time, whether it’s reading or listening to industry voices like Joshua Young, Safir Bellali and Barry McGeough. Their insights are like popcorn to me—I can’t get enough!
On the flip side, I’m more skeptical of some so-called ‘green technologies.’ For instance, tools that claim to assess environmental impact using AI can sometimes feel like greenwashing. While they may have potential, years of hearing grand claims without real substance have made me cautious.
Ultimately, the most sustainable choice doesn’t require new tech: invest in timeless silhouettes and durable, natural fibers that last for years.
It’s simple, but it’s the real deal—far better than chasing the latest trend or product that ends up in the landfill. And yes, I’ll admit, I’m as guilty as anyone of falling for something pretty and new – love me a Boden purchase – but sustainability starts with resisting that temptation.
You have commanded some impressive roles at a range of companies in this space. In your experience, what are the biggest barriers companies face when adopting and integrating new digital tools, and how can they overcome them?
Integrating digital tools into a fast-paced industry like fashion is no small feat. While the promise of innovation is enticing, the reality of implementation often reveals challenges that can derail even the best-laid plans. As far as the most common obstacles I’ve witnessed, I don’t think it matters what the technology is, we always seem to fall into the same people and process traps…
The biggest challenge I’ve seen is organizational change management—or lack thereof. Technology implementation alone isn’t enough; you need to re-engineer your business processes to maximize the potential of that technology.
If you’re just layering new tools on top of outdated workflows, you’re missing the point.
Change can feel disruptive—especially in an industry juggling multiple seasons and tight deadlines—but without dedicated champions to drive the vision and bring the organization along, the transformation will stall.
Another obstacle is a general lack of awareness about emerging technologies. Too often, companies assume they know what a tool can do without fully exploring its capabilities. The pace of tech innovation is staggering, and it’s critical to step back, evaluate what’s out there, and take calculated risks. Thankfully, many of today’s solutions can be implemented far faster than legacy systems—sometimes in as little as six to nine weeks.
Embracing an agile mindset, failing fast, and pivoting when needed are essential for staying ahead.
Finally, one of the most frustrating issues is when companies adopt new tools but continue old workflows in parallel. For instance, if the goal of transitioning to 3D is to streamline product development, don’t keep creating flat patterns and physical samples alongside the 3D iterations. This not only overburdens teams but also undermines the value of the new technology.
Rip and replace—commit fully to the new process and let go of what no longer serves the vision. Without this clarity of purpose, you risk alienating the very people you’re trying to help.
With advancements in AI and automation, how do you envision digital creation evolving in the fashion industry, particularly in terms of creativity and efficiency?
Oh, the future is poised to be revolutionary, driven by AI-powered automation and rapid ideation! Imagine having your 3D models, 2D line drawings, and approved color palettes all working in harmony. Why not run a bot that instantly colors up designs, generates variations, and allows you to visualize an entire collection in seconds?
This level of rapid ideation is no longer a dream—it’s happening.
I recently witnessed a system that could take a silhouette, combine it with dozens of graphics, and auto-generate every variation based on a set palette—all in real-time. It’s the kind of innovation that would have blown my 16-year-old self’s mind.
AI and machine learning will play an increasingly prominent role, not just in creating visuals but also in understanding what works and what doesn’t. For designers, it’s natural to feel some apprehension.
My advice? Embrace it. Be a pioneer in leveraging these tools because they’re not going away. Those who adapt quickly will lead this exciting transformation.
I can see how that kind of rapid ideation could totally transform how collections come together. But it also makes me think about how much all these tools need to work together to really make it happen. As tools like DPC, PLM, and AI become increasingly interconnected, what steps should companies take to create a cohesive and integrated digital ecosystem?
Integrating tools like DPC, PLM, and AI isn’t just a nice-to-have anymore—it’s absolutely essential for fashion brands to stay competitive.
But here’s the kicker: most companies are still treating these tools as separate silos instead of connecting them into a cohesive system. That’s a huge missed opportunity.
Take PLM, for example. It’s great at managing raw materials and engineering data, but as I said earlier, it hasn’t fundamentally evolved in 20 years. Many systems are clunky and outdated, which makes it hard to create the kind of seamless workflows the industry desperately needs. Meanwhile, newer technology solutions like VibeIQ (I know…I’m obsessed :p) are coming in with modern APIs and agile capabilities, and they’re showing just how much can be achieved with the right approach.
So, how do companies make integration actually work? In my mind there are four things we need to be doing:
Firstly, modernize your tech stack. Look for tools with out-of-the-box APIs and the flexibility to integrate with existing systems.
You can’t build a connected ecosystem with outdated infrastructure.
Second, become more agile. The days of rigid, static systems are over. Companies need to embrace technologies that can adapt and grow with their needs.
Number three, we need to be rethinking workflows rather than adding more layers of complexity. If you’re using 3D tools, don’t keep doing things the old way on top of the new process. As I said earlier, rip and replace—it’s tough, but it’s necessary!
And finally, and I’m going to say it again: focus on meaningful change management! The tech is only half the battle. You need people who can rally the organization around a clear vision and help bring everyone along for the ride.
But here’s the exciting part: the industry is at a tipping point. There’s an opportunity to completely transform how we work and achieve faster timelines, lower costs, and a more connected process.
But it’s going to take bold moves, fresh thinking, and a willingness to challenge the status quo. I guess you just need to ask yourself, in the infamous, wise words of Taylor Swift: ‘are you ready for it?’ It’ll be worth it!
Love it – modernize, rethink, adapt, and lead the change. And a Taylor Swift reference to boot! Let’s talk about sustainability for a moment. DPC was once marketed as a sustainability solution, but that narrative seems to have faded. Why do you think this happened, and how can the industry leverage DPC to drive meaningful sustainability efforts?
Let’s be real: the sustainability narrative was more about selling DPC than genuinely tackling the apparel industry’s sustainability challenges. There, I said it!
Here’s the truth: physical samples aren’t the problem. The real sustainability crisis lies in the mountains of discarded apparel, the overuse of plastics, and a cycle of overproduction that’s visible from space. Claiming that DPC alone could solve these issues was a well-packaged marketing story, but it missed the mark.
That said, I do believe that DPC can contribute to sustainability in meaningful ways—just not in the way it was initially sold. Tools that provide better visibility into assortments, like allowing brands to visualize their collections by colorway, store cluster, or forecast, empower smarter decisions early in the process. For example, brands like Vera Bradley reduced their SKU counts by identifying over-assortment and cutting redundant designs before prototyping.
The real sustainability win? What you don’t make.
Reducing overproduction, focusing on timeless designs, and prioritizing sustainable materials have far greater environmental impact than eliminating a handful of samples.
Ultimately, DPC’s potential lies in helping brands create smarter, not just faster. It’s not the silver bullet for sustainability—but it can be a powerful tool for making thoughtful, impactful changes.
I totally agree—DPC can’t fix overproduction and landfill waste, but it can help brands make smarter, more thoughtful decisions. Okay, shifting gears a bit: what practical advice would you give to companies just starting out with digital tools, as well as to those looking to sustain their momentum in this rapidly evolving landscape?
Good question. Look, for everyone the rapid pace of digital evolution demands clarity, strategy, and adaptability. Specifically for those in the early stages, I guess three things come to mind:
Define your “why”; be crystal clear about your objectives before diving into digital tools like 3D modeling. Ask: What is the primary intent? Is it to reduce samples and improve factory communication? Accelerate sales presentations? Gather consumer feedback? Understanding your goals upfront helps determine whether specific tools like 3D, AI or whatever, are truly the right fit.
Then, ensure you explore use cases & investments. Engage with experts to understand the range of use cases and their associated costs. For example, creating assets for product development may require significant investments in raw material digitization, while marketing visuals may not require full 3D modeling. Tailor your approach to the specific outcomes you want to achieve.
And finally for those beginners, stay agile and not overloaded.
Start small and scale thoughtfully.
Don’t bite off more than your organization can chew. Test new tools and processes incrementally to learn what delivers real value without overwhelming your teams.
And as far as the early adopters looking to maintain momentum..
Reevaluate your strategy; as AI and other technologies rapidly advance, revisit your initial goals. Ask yourself: Are we still investing in tools and workflows that align with our current and future needs?
Avoid building a bridge to nowhere by continuing to invest in outdated or redundant systems.
Then, show tangible wins. To regain stakeholder interest, focus on showcasing measurable results. Highlight where digital tools have delivered value, whether it’s cost savings, reduced lead times, or increased sales efficiency.
Clear data and success stories can help rekindle enthusiasm and unlock further buy-in.
And finally, prepare for disruption and embrace change. The rise of AI presents both challenges and opportunities. Rather than resist, look for ways to incorporate AI as a complementary tool. For instance, consider how AI can streamline ideation, reduce manual effort, or enhance visual accuracy.
I know that was a lot, but the digital landscape is dynamic, and success lies in being intentional, adaptable, and future-focused. Whether you’re taking your first steps or recalibrating as an early mover, clarity of purpose and a willingness to evolve will keep you on the cutting edge.
There’s so much practical wisdom in that—especially the reminder to stay agile and focused on tangible wins. Alright, shifting gears again, this time to education: what gaps do you see in how we’re preparing the next generation of talent for a digital-first fashion industry, and what steps can we take to bridge them?
Let’s be honest—when it comes to preparing the next generation of talent for a digital-first fashion industry, we’re still not where we need to be. Despite all the talk about innovation, many students are graduating without ever having touched the tools they’ll be expected to use on day one in the workplace. And that’s a problem.
Here’s the thing: if we’re serious about building a workforce that’s ready for the challenges of a digital-first value chain, we need to start giving students hands-on experience with the tools shaping the industry.
I’m talking about systems like PLM, 3D design platforms, and product-centric platforms connecting teams and data like VibeIQ. If you’re an educational institution reading this—call me! Seriously, reach out. We’re eager to partner with schools and programs to get these tools into the hands of students. They should graduate not just knowing what these systems are but knowing how to use them as second nature.
Another issue? Too often, students are still being taught in ways that don’t reflect how work actually happens today.
They’re trained on outdated processes, making them ill-prepared for the reality of modern workflows. We need to break that cycle. Students should leave school understanding that digitization isn’t just an option; it’s the foundation of how the industry operates. They need to walk into their first jobs thinking, “What do you mean you still do this manually?” That’s the mindset we need to cultivate.
Collaboration between schools and the industry is critical here. Technology providers like us at VibeIQ are eager to help bridge this gap. We want students to have the skills and confidence to say, “I know how to use PLM, I can handle 3D tools, and I’ve worked in collaborative digital environments.”
Better yet, they should be able to help their future teams adopt these tools, becoming evangelists for change.
And let’s not forget mentorship. One of the most valuable things students can have is access to leaders who inspire them, push them out of their comfort zones, and teach them the value of integrity and relationships. I’ve been lucky to have incredible mentors throughout my career, and now it’s my job to pay that forward.
I always tell young professionals: don’t be afraid to stick your hand out. Find the leaders who make you feel safe but also challenge you. Reach out to them, ask questions, and build those connections.
Ultimately, we need to rethink how we’re preparing talent for the digital-first future. It’s about integrating cutting-edge tools into education, creating a digital-native mindset, fostering mentorship, and breaking down the barriers between schools and the industry. It’s time to stop talking about it and start making it happen. And if you’re ready to take that step, you know where to find me!
Love the emphasis on getting students hands-on with the real tools of the trade! Reflecting on your experiences with PI Apparel, how do you think the series has evolved to meet industry needs while fostering collaboration and innovation?
Listen, I said it at the start and I’ll say it again…PI Apparel and your team are my absolute favourite. I really mean that! The PI Apparel journey has been such a wild ride. I think back to those early days with so much nostalgia—it was a mix of big ideas and fun experiments. Who could forget the digital mirrors or that hug shirt?
It wasn’t just about PLM or ticking industry boxes; it was about looking up at the stars and imagining what could be next.
Those early events sparked something in me, like nothing else ever had. It was inspiring in a way that stuck with you long after the event was over.
Over time, PI has really grown and evolved, but it hasn’t lost what made it special. Sure, the sessions are always great, but for me, the real magic is in the connections you make. The chance to sit down with your peers—not just vendors—and really talk about how to make things work in the real world. Some of those hallway chats have been more valuable than anything I’ve learned in a session because they turn big ideas into actionable steps. And your team are always so warm and welcoming too – it’s really like one big family reunion and the epitome of people-first!
What’s impressed me most is how PI keeps reflecting the industry’s needs while also pushing it forward. It’s no longer just about PLM or DPC—it’s branching out into things like sourcing and AI, and creating space for those specific conversations. It’s evolved into this go-to place for staying ahead, and I think it’s only getting better.
Honestly, events like PI Apparel are non-negotiable if you want to keep your team and brand on the cutting edge. You can’t expect to stay ahead if you’re not engaging with the broader industry. And it’s not just about the execs showing up—send your younger team members, too. Let them soak it all in, come back with fresh ideas, and maybe even surprise you with what they’ve learned. Investing in your people’s brains is one of the smartest moves you can make.
Because at the end of the day, this industry moves forward when we collaborate, share, and keep challenging ourselves—and PI is one of the best places to do that!
It really means such a lot that PI Apparel holds such a special place for you—thank you! Alright, last one: looking back on your career, what moments or achievements are you most proud of, and what lessons have had the greatest impact on you?
Reflecting on my journey, there are so many moments I’m proud of, but if I had to pick, it’s the relationships I’ve built along the way that truly stand out. I’ve been lucky to work with incredible companies, from Patagonia to Deckers, and now VibeIQ.
But it’s the connections I’ve made with people—people who’ve become like family—that mean the most to me. Even years after leaving some roles, those bonds remain strong, and that’s something I deeply value.
I’m also proud of my willingness to take risks and push boundaries, even when it’s been uncomfortable or challenging. Whether it was spearheading bold tech initiatives or rethinking traditional processes, I’ve always tried to look at the stars and imagine what’s possible. Some of those risks have led to incredible successes and moved the industry forward in meaningful ways.
One of the biggest lessons I’ve learned is the importance of being honest and bold.
Sure, it’s gotten me into trouble a few times, but it’s also been the key to making meaningful changes and achieving results I never thought possible. At the end of the day, the work we do is a reflection of the people we do it with, and I’m proud to have been in the “foxhole” with some truly amazing colleagues and friends.
And, of course, being part of communities like PI Apparel for over a decade has been such a gift. These relationships—whether with peers or mentors—are what make this industry so special.
I firmly believe that investing in people and relationships is the secret sauce to any great project or career, and that’s a lesson I’ll carry with me forever.
