Introduction
When I first arrived at Kingpins Amsterdam, I was immediately swept up in its energy: the buzz of hundreds of booths, the scent of fresh denim, and the stylish crowd weaving through the floors to blasting music that made it feel more runway-meets-rave than your average trade show. The venue was bursting with inspiration but it was a lot, and I’ll admit that it took me a moment to find my bearings.
I’ve already shared my takeaways from the great opening keynote by Ana Paula Alves, Founder of Be Disobedient, in ‘What Denim’s Macro & Micro Trends Reveal About the Future of Retail.’ (Missed it? Catch up here.)
But it wasn’t until I sat in on a later panel unpacking the design stories behind the ‘Future Fit Forum‘ that the penny dropped: this was just one of the initiatives of Kingpins’ ‘Beyond the Fabric’, the creative heartbeat of the show.
Scattered throughout the venue, ‘Beyond the Fabric’ was a curated mix of installations and initiatives that pushed denim far beyond product. It was about time travel, tech, imagination, identity, and cultural commentary. It was the storytelling-led epicentre where denim was less about SKUs and more about speculation, sensation, and the future of fashion. It was also refreshingly void of any form of AI narrative.
Here’s a look at six standout projects that, for me, best blurred the lines between history and holograms, couture and compost, storytelling and stretch…

1. The Future Fit Forum – Reimagining Denim for a Changing World
Curated by Markt & Twigs & Hyosung
The ‘Future Fit Forum’ is a design challenge turned speculative showcase; a bold reimagining of what denim could become in a world shaped by shifting lifestyles, hybrid identities, and speculative futures.
Each nominated designer received upcycled Levi’s 501s (which I now understand are the OGs of denim) and a few yards of bio-based stretch denim from Hyosung. The brief? Combine existing iconic garments saved from a landfill with modern, responsibly-made denim, to create a totally new version of the future. Abandon commercial logic. Dream big. Get weird.
Recurring themes included:
👖 Hybrid garments that serve multiple uses
🧵 Textile manipulations that blurred the lines between utility and couture
🔮 A rethinking of how we might dress in a world reshaped by climate, tech + social change
🔙 Looking to the past to inspire the future; a love letter to iconic silhouettes, reinterpreted through possibility
🧠 My Key Takeaway
Above all else, the ‘Future Fit Forum‘ is a reminder that if denim, or indeed any product, is to evolve, experimentation isn’t optional…it’s essential. Creators need space to breathe beyond strict timelines, narrow parameters, and P&L chatter to truly play, explore, and inspire.
Featured designers included: Anna Weber (Artworks & Denim); Natashia Lunt (Showroom 316); Margaret Sam (Sum London); and Piero Turk (Envelope SRL)

2. 3D DENIM ARCHIVES – Preserving Denim Heritage Through 3D Innovation
By ENDRIME®️ x Rajby Industries x d_archive x Susan Zheng
I’ll admit upfront that I’m a little biased about this project. I used to work with Daniele Scarante, Co-Founder & CMO of d_archive, and had the pleasure of interviewing him for Seamless last year about their brilliant work on “Preserving Fashion Heritage in the Digital Age”.
But bias aside, the ‘3D DENIM ARCHIVES’ project is worthy of a shoutout. It’s a true celebration of heritage-meets-high-tech, preservation-meets-innovation.
In collaboration with ENDRIME®️ and Rajby Industries, eight garments from the ENDRIME®️ Archive – spanning 1870 to 1999, including one nearly destroyed by rats – were reverse-engineered into 3D holograms and digitised in DXF and Clo3D formats, transforming rare fashion artifacts into interactive, educational tools.
And this wasn’t just digital for digital’s sake. Rajby Industries also recreated the garments physically using period-accurate fabrics and sustainable washes, proving that 3D doesn’t replace craft, but in fact, can enhance it.
What Made It Special?
📏 Original ENDRIME®️ pieces displayed alongside modern reworks
👥 Manned by all three collaborators, who guided visitors through the mission and tech
📚 156-page exhibition book with Clo3D renders and archival storytelling
📐 Free paper patterns + DXF and Clo3D downloads for students
🧠 My Key Takeaway
In an industry obsessed with the next drop, ‘3D Denim Archives’ reminds us to look back in order to build forward. It’s a compelling blueprint for preserving fashion heritage in a way that is open-source, educational, and future-ready.
3. Stretch Yourself #4 – Student-Driven Visions for the Future of Denim
By Jean School x House of Denim x The LYCRA Company
How far can stretch denim go? That was the prompt behind ‘Stretch Yourself #4′, a design challenge for 20 emerging designers from Jean School Amsterdam.
Using high-performance, sustainability-focused fabrics from The LYCRA Company, students were encouraged to explore denim’s future: technically, functionally, and emotionally.
What Made It Special?
🎓 Fully student-led, from concept to construction
🌀 Reversible silhouettes, detachable garments, and innovative finishes
🌿 Sustainability and storytelling baked into every step
🤝 A true collaboration between industry and education
🧠 My Key Takeaway
‘Stretch Yourself’ proves that with freedom and support, young creatives won’t just follow trends, but will help shape what could come next. This is what modern education should look like.
✨More to come: I have been lucky enough to visit House of Denim myself and was so inspired that I’ll be interviewing Co-Founder, Mariette Hoitink, soon for Seamless. Watch this space!

4. ROOTED: Real Workwear for Real Workers – Denim Grounded in Purpose
By AMK Atelier x Cone Denim x Eduard Nijgh
‘ROOTED’ followed an all-female team of farmers just outside Amsterdam for a full year, testing custom workwear through real agricultural labour. The goal? To see how these garments performed, aged, and adapted to a life lived outdoors, season by season.
Made from sustainable versions of Cone’s historic fabrics, each piece was designed with durability, function, and respect in mind. Designer Maria Gunnarsson added intentional details like extra pockets and convertible pant legs, all tailored to the women actually doing the work.
What Made It Special?
🌾 Real farmers, labour + wear.
👖 Purposeful silhouettes, built for function
📽️ Visual storytelling through film + photography
🌿 Sustainability embedded in heritage design
🧠 My Key Takeaway
‘ROOTED’ is a reminder that clothing isn’t just a fashion statement, it’s a tool. Designed for real lives, these pieces become more than durable…they become meaningful.

5. DENIM RENAISSANCE: The Beauty of Time – Blending Italian Craft & Heritage with High-Tech Finishing
By Tonello
If you’re not familiar (I wasn’t!), Tonello is one of Italy’s most respected garment finishing tech companies, blending craftsmanship with cutting-edge sustainability. Their innovations around laser, ozone, and other water-saving methods have redefined how denim is washed and worn.
Their ‘Denim Renaissance’ installation drew inspiration from Italy’s artistic heritage, and features finishes and treatments referencing legendary works from the likes of Leonardo da Vinci and Caravaggio to create a rich collision of history, fashion and emotion.
💬 Why it stood out:
Denim here became a fresco and a living archive. The collection expressed Italy’s iconic visual language through erosion, gold accents, and deeply layered surfaces, reminding us that wear is not damage, but story.
🧠 My Key Takeaway
Tonello flips the script on luxury, inviting us to find beauty in age, elegance in imperfection, and narrative in decay. It proves that when tech meets storytelling, even the toughest fabric becomes fine art.

6. The Lil Denim Show Presents: Paradoxe Paris – A Denim Rebellion, Stitched in Paris
By Lil Denim Jean
Originally launched as a “digital pants museum” on Instagram, The Lil Denim Show has evolved into a platform that celebrates denim’s most expressive reinventions. This time, it spotlighted ‘Paradoxe Paris’, its collection fusing couture-level craftsmanship with subversive energy and Parisian edge.
Handmade in Paris, their silhouettes blend 100% cotton denim, buffalo leather, and velvet into garments that are dramatic, daring, and richly detailed. Think subversive tailoring, bold proportions, and wearable storytelling.
What Made It Special?
✂️ Avant-garde silhouettes with impeccable craft
🖤 A rebellious energy rooted in Parisian precision
🧠 My Key Takeaway
Paradoxe Paris reminds us that design doesn’t have to play it safe. With the right mix of tradition and edge, even the most familiar fabric can become fashion theatre.

Final Thoughts
Whether it’s couture-level creativity, digital preservation, or raw, real-world workwear, ‘Beyond the Fabric’ proves that denim is more than a building block; it’s a platform for experimentation, cultural storytelling, and rethinking how fashion could and should show up in people’s lives.
And these aren’t just denim insights, they’re lessons for the entire fashion system. From sustainability and heritage to education, digital craft, and storytelling, the future of fashion should be open-ended, fun, collaborative, and driven by purpose.